Taking A Closer Look At The Place Vendôme Complicité by Czapek

Czapek is in a very good place at the moment. Their Antarctique remains one of the premium, in-demand, integrated bracelet sports watches by an independent. They have repeatedly executed complications in their own manner, and how they continue to express their brand tenets is simply wonderful. In short, they're receiving the recognition they deserve, with their latest creation marking yet another significant step forward. It's called the Place Vendôme Complicité, and its proprietary take on a technical feat seldom found in wristwatches – a double escapement regulator. 

The Czapek Place Vendôme Complicité

Announced at the annual summer show Geneva Watch Days, Czapek picked up where they left off in March with a return of the “exposed it and reworked it” approach, as seen with their Antarctique Révélation. Until now, the Place Vendôme was a single-watch-strong collection (bar variations) with the Tourbillon that debuted in 2017; a dual-time model with a tourbillon, power reserve, and a day/night indicator. It's a collection we haven't seen much of in recent years – even when we did, the releases were extremely limited – but as of a few weeks ago, the latest mechanical innovation from Czapek was added to this collection. Following the pyramid dial layout of the afore Place Vendôme entries, the new Complicité welcomes a complication the Czapek team envisioned three years after they re-formed in 2015 (if you want to hear more about the brand's story and decorated heritage, click here), the double escapement regulator. The concept behind this complication involves the operation of two balance wheels independently, both driven by a single barrel through a differential mechanism. Each escapement beats in opposing directions, thus nullifying any potential discrepancies in timekeeping precision, be it from gravitational forces or the myriad of factors encountered in daily life. The result of this is enhanced timekeeping accuracy.

While the impressive technicals are apparent, what's even more compelling is how Czapek exposes its complexity and configures it so the gearing frames the centre of the dial, forming a critical element of the watch's visual language. The differential can be seen at the twelve-position dial side of the watch, with each gear train being mirrored on either side before reaching the two variable inertia balance wheels.

There is so much to explore with this piece, with the depth of the movement producing a chamber with two levels of sapphire bridges sitting on top of the train, giving an impression of the differential floating. The closer you inspect it, the more you realise the extent Czapek went to deliver a piece more than a simple novelty. Take its triangular balance wheel bridges. Not only do they feature a wonderful finish and anglage, but their form ensures the watch retains legibility regarding simple hours and minutes timekeeping; I'll explain.

You'll notice that the dart applied hour markers stop at three and re-appear again at nine, making it somewhat difficult to accurately read the time if the four, five, six, seven, and eight hours – or corresponding minute readings – come into play. Well, Czapek thought of that, as each arm of the escapement bridges perfectly lines up with the missing hour markers (six aside, users can use the power reserve indications for this) as guides. This detail is confirmed when looking at the watch from an angle, as the bridges line up perfectly with the minute track around the periphery of the watch. 

Aside from the beautiful chasm of watchmaking occupying the centre of the watch with its matte grainé finish, the Complicité is complemented by a brushed chapter ring for the applied dart style markers, partially skeletonised hands not to restrict the view of the movement and a centred power reserve indicator at six. 

On launch, the watch is available in two variations: Harmony Blue with a rose gold case and dial architecture, or Stardust, which is rendered in white gold with matching furniture. Measuring 41.8mm in width with a lug-to-lug of 48.2mm and a thickness of 14.8mm (this is more like 13.3mm on the wrist), the proportions are modern but by no means too large. You'll also notice the presence of depth in the case with a mix of finishes and hollowed lugs. Both variations have considerably different personalities, but it is the rawness of the Stardust that, to my eyes, truly conveys the unassuming charm of a Czapek, regardless of the remarkable achievements of this new reference.

Although the idea for this watch came to Czapek in 2018, transforming this vision into a reality proved to be a formidable challenge. Despite an exhaustive quest for a watchmaking partner capable of harmonising the aesthetic and technical requirements, the concept was temporarily shelved. Then, an unexpected twist of fate breathed new life into the project. Paul, one of the Czapek CEO's children, happened to share a class in Neuchâtel with the daughter of watchmaker Bernhard Lederer. Once the two fathers had met, they became close friends, ultimately leading to the two working together to realise the innovative double escapement architecture and give birth to the remarkable timepiece. It's a wonderful inception story, so indicative of Czapek's philosophy and principles in manufacturing.

A few lasting thoughts

Czapek is one of only a small handful of brands that abides by the tradition of horizontal manufacture and proudly shares who they work with to make their watch a reality. They also embrace the spirit of independence and imagine creations that truly feel bespoke. Take the Antarctique Révélation from March, the many iterations of the Quai des Bergues, or even just the standard Antarctique. Each watch has a character and essence that could only come from a maison like Czapek. You won't confuse a Czapek for anything else, and this Place Vendôme Complicité is yet another occurrence.

They remain one of my favourite independents for their ability to justify their complication in ways tough to compare to others. In today's age of watchmaking, that's rare. 

Pre-order the Czapek Place Vendôme Complicité Stardust here.

Pre-Order the Czapek Place Vendôme Complicité Harmony Blue here.

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Specifications

FUNCTIONS
Hours, Minutes, Seconds & Power reserve indicator

MOVEMENT
Calibre 8 created in collaboration with Bernhard Lederer
Number of parts: 293
Open-work
Double escapement with differential gearing and central second
Power-reserve: 72 hours
Frequency: 3Hz – 21,600 VpH
Two variable inertia balance wheels oscillating in opposite directions, with four adjusment screws and four weights
Balance springs with Breguet terminal curves
Two Sapphire bridges with six rubies set in gold chatons

FINISH
Hand-beveling on bridges and main plate
18 inward angles hand-chamfered

CASE
18K 5N rose gold or white gold case with domed sapphire and sandblasted hollowed-out lugs
Crown protectors
Diameter: 41.8 mm
Lug to lug: 48.22 mm
Height with lugs: 14.8 mm
Height on wrist: 13.3 mm
Perceived height (without glass): 8.8 mm
Sapphire glass with double anti-reflective treatment
Water-resistance: 50m (5 atm)

DIAL
Open-worked with double escapement on a ’Grainé’ main plate with blue or silver galvanic treatment
Circular-grained minutes and hours track
Partially skeletonized sword hands
Faceted mirror-polished indexes in gold

STRAP
Alligator strap with 18K 5N rose gold or white gold folding buckle

LIMITATION
50 pieces for each iteration

Discover the Czapek collection here.