An Introduction to Czapek & Cie

Despite their recent wave of popularity fuelled by the Antarctique (more on that in a moment), Czapek & Cie have a surprisingly long and intriguing history. The brand as we see it today may have only been resurrected in 2015, but it had lived a life way before this, with an origin connected to another watch brand, Patek Philippe. Born in 1811, Franciszek Czapek was a Polish soldier of Czech origin who arrived in Geneva, Switzerland, in 1832. With a gallicised name to François Czapek, he established Czapek & Moreau two years after arriving with local Swiss watchmaker Moreau. Around the same time, Moreau also befriended another soldier with Polish heritage called Antoni Norbert Patek, who began working closely on organising and the logistics behind getting goldsmiths to decorate pocket watches.

But here's where things get interesting, as in 1839, Czapek and Patek established a new business venture together out of Geneva and under the name: Patek, Czapek & Cie. Over their six years in business together, Czapek overlooked the watchmaking while Patek focused on the sales and company logistics. Just 12 months into their partnership, they employed half a dozen workers (several also coming from Poland) and were producing 200 watches per annum, initially by individual order and focusing on themes of Polish heritage and culture. The craftsmanship of these pieces was nothing short of exquisite. Yet, in 1845, the two men parted ways, with Czapek going on to find a new partner in the form of Juliusz Gruzewski (a close friend of French Emperor Napoleon III, no less), and Patek joined with Adrien Philippe to form Patek Philippe & Co; a different story for a different time.

It's here where Czapek & Cie truly began to thrive. They became the 'Fournisseur de la cour' or Purveyors to the Imperial Court of Emperor Napoleon III and opened many ateliers from Geneva, Paris, and Warsaw over the following ten years. Czapek was remarkably prestigious at this point, even going on to produce the first ever book on watchmaking published in the Polish language, "Remarks on the watchmaking for the use of the watchmakers and the public".

Nevertheless, in 1869 Czapek & Cie stopped operations, seemingly forever. But just over 140 years later, the Czapek name returned to the horological scene at the hands of Xavier de Roquemaurel, Harry Guhl, and Sébastien Follonier. With de Roquemaurel at the helm as CEO, they announced that the brand was back in 2015, and along with it came a new, fresh approach to business. Rather than attempting to bring all manufacturing in-house like so many brands today, Czapek was to establish their business the traditional way by working with separate specialists for case, hands, dial, and movement makers. The final piece of the puzzle, however, was the antithesis of tradition, as Czapek allowed watch fans and customers not only to own a watch but also to buy into the company as a shareholder. This crowdfunding equity approach helped the brand raise over 2 million CHF, bringing 100 watch lovers on as shareholders and simultaneously demonstrating that despite the brand's fascinating legacy, its current existence was going to be its own entity. Around this time, the brand launched its first collection, the Quai des Bergues.

Quai des Bergues

Named after the location where Czapek first founded the company in 1845, the Quai des Bergues was the brand's re-introduction to watchmaking and drew heavily on features of a historical pocket watch reference 3430 from 1850. The most notable similarities included: thin Roman numerals, incredibly ornate Fleurs de Lys-styled hands, a day indicator which integrates with the power reserve at the four o'clock position, a sub-register seconds at eight, a grand feu enamel dial, all executed with an overall sense of traditionality. And yet, de Roquemaurel ensured the watch had a contemporary perspective by allowing customers to choose from a wide range of straps, dial details, and case materials, as well as having the option to customise the watch with a secret grand feu enamel signature. This commitment to variations has ensured that the Quai des Bergues stays relevant and embodies Czapek today. With guilloche dials in green, to midnight sky Dark Blue Aventurine dials, both small (38.5mm) and large (42.5mm) sizes, to even a piece with a black titanium ADLC case.

Powering the Quai des Bergues is the original Calibre SXH1 manually wound movement, designed by and for Czapek exclusively. This double barrel, 31 jewels, partially open-worked movement is executed with sandblasting to bridges and the main plate, hand bevelling, heat-blued screws, circular graining and snailing on the visible gear train. With an overall fantastic modern appearance despite the model's overall classic capability, this exciting movement offers seven days of autonomy. It presents an option that easily punches way above its price point. 

The Quai des Bergues is a true chameleon capable of transitioning from sports watch to dress watch purely based on the configuration of its platform. In the small size with a white enamel "Grand feu" dial, 5N rose gold case, and "Fleur de Lys" hands in blued white gold, it's overwhelmingly traditional, drawing a direct line back to its pocket watch heritage. However, in titanium, with lumed hands and its larger 42.5mm size, it's an unexpected luxury sports watch. If you want a watch with range, this is it.

Faubourg de Cracovie Chronograph

Around 2018 Czapek announced another new model in their lineup, the Faubourg de Cracovie Chronograph. Once again named after a historically relevant aspect of their heritage, their third boutique opened in Warsaw, Poland. Czapek continues to explore the sportier side of horology with its automatic column-wheel chronograph calibre, the SXH3. Produced by Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier, this movement comes with a jam-packed list of features from its 5 Hz (36,000 VpH) frequency, 65 hours of running time, column wheel, vertical clutch, linear hammer, gold rotor and sandblasted and polished anthracite bridges. It's an advanced movement for sure, and one which, rather than the majority of the Quai des Bergues configurations, isn't shy of showing its youthful nature externally, especially with its case. Measuring 41.5mm in width, the case features scalloped flanks with wonderful inner frosting, a move which cleverly disguises its thickness while adding additional visual interest. Do you see its chronograph pushers? No? Exactly, that's because they're tastefully and super subtly integrated into the case design, precisely like the crown guards on the Quai des Bergues. 

Once more, the Faubourg de Cracovie Chronograph has plenty of options going for it, from precious metal pieces with guilloché dials, to bright colours like purple, salmon and blue, to even California dial variations with sporty fusions. The Faubourg de Cracovie Chronograph is some of the earliest evidence that the brand isn't afraid to carve its own path in the future despite its significant historical relevance.  

Antarctique Collection

And finally, we end on the watch that perhaps many know Czapek for the most: their Antarctique. First debuted during the peak of a particular pandemic in 2020, this integrated bracelet luxury sports watch was the first of its kind for the brand, demonstrating that Czapek has a different side to them, one with their finger entirely on the pulse. The watch is realised in stainless steel with a quick-release brushed and polished integrated bracelet meaning strap changes to their rubber and calf straps are pain-free and uncompromising in their appearance.

The case is also worth shouting about, with a familiar scalloped flank design, subtle crown guards, and a blend of polished and brushed surfaces for its 70s-esque tonneau-shaped form. Not only is the Antarctique honest to the Czapek's modern brand language, but it's also authentic to the original charm of integrated sports watches; I'd forgive you if you first thought this piece was initially around in the 1970s. Interesting and nuanced dials by now are a hallmark of a Czapek piece, and the Antarctique doesn't disappoint in this department. A date aperture at six maintains visual balance while the hands and raised hour markers carry a sword-like appearance and are filled with lume. It's a dynamic yet restrained dial, which comes to life with the different variations available. Perhaps the most compelling dial is the one featuring an atypical trapezoid dial motif with a unique relationship to light and shadow thanks to its three-dimensional stamped surface. When discussing this dial, Czapek & Cie. CEO Xavier de Roquemaurel says:

"This unique dial design is called the 'Stairway to Eternity' and was actually our initial concept dial for the Antarctique, as we were looking for a signature dial design that would be very different from anything else, but it was such a lengthy process to perfect that we launched with another dial, based on a forgotten workmanship technique, the combed 'lamé' dials. We finally discovered the perfect motif when our designer accidentally enlarged the trapezoids by 50% without realising it, and it looked amazing. That's the beauty of mistakes!"

Powering the Antarctique is the Calibre SXH5, which is one seriously impressive-looking micro-rotor movement. Elaborate Skeleton bridges, a free-sprung balance wheel with variable inertia, 56 hours of autonomy, and its micro-rotor, which is made from recycled platinum. Technical and visual complexity has been achieved here, and it's all (thankfully) visible through the display caseback. 

There is one special Antarctique, though, and that's the Rattrapante. First released in 2021 before an ice blue version arrived in 2022, the Antarctique Rattrapante was an instant hit and fully cemented Czapek's standing in the independent watchmaking scene. If a split-second chronograph wasn't enough, this piece is so incredible because the Chronode-developed SXH6 movement has its entire split-second mechanism placed dial side with a sapphire dial. Furthermore, it's also a monopusher that maintains 120m of water resistance and looks simply stunning. Although the Rattrapante measures 42.5mm, the standard Antarctique models come in at 40.5mm, with the Antarctique S measuring 38.5mm. This range of sizes is refreshing to see, with the same desirability in design across all references.

 

Since the launch of the Antarctique, it's probably unsurprisingly to learn that it's been extremely popular and, thus, difficult to get hold of. Integrated bracelet steel sports watches that express true luxury like the Antarctique at its retail price are hard to come by, but Czapek confidently entered the space with a watch and a platform which excels in its flair and attention to detail. That's a lot easier said than done.

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Discover the Czapek & Cie collection here.