New Releases | Watches and Wonders Geneva 2022

 

It's that time of the year again when watch brands across the globe announce their latest watches for 2022. After a couple of years of disruption caused by the pandemic, in-person watch events are well and truly back in action, and this year brands really brought the heat. Watches and Wonders Geneva was the big event that had everyone talking, but it wasn't the only show worth discussing. Watchmakers made the most of the number of collectors eagerly jumping online to see the latest and greatest, with many brands familiar to James Porter & Son announcing their latest novelties. With an array of seriously impressive pieces announced, it felt wise to share which new releases you can expect to see coming to James Porter & Son in the coming weeks and months - spoilers, you're in for a treat.

 

Grand Seiko

Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Spring Drive GMT SBGE283 & SBGE285

I've recently taken a deep dive into the Spring Drive movement (which you can read here), so any new models powered by this piece of tech always have my attention. These new additions to the Evolution 9 series possess every trait that makes Grand Seiko remarkable. We get innovative materials thanks to its titanium exterior. We also get technical prowess via its Spring Drive movement with GMT complication. To top it all off, the dials on these new models flex yet another Grand Seiko skill. The SBGE285 with its white birch esque dial is the one that will likely garner the most attention, but the refinement and elegance of the SBGE283 shouldn't be overlooked.

 

Grand Seiko SLGA015 Spring Drive Diver

On the subject of Spring Drive, say hello to the new Spring Drive-powered diver, the SLGA015. The most notable updates here are the movement and its size. Powering this watch is the 9RA5, a movement that was previously only available in a limited edition. Grand Seiko hails this movement as the next generation of Spring Drive, thanks to various changes that refine its proportions and efficiency. It remains a large diving watch at a hair under 44mm, but its titanium case carries the updated Evolution 9 DNA. Being Grand Seiko, you can be sure not to be disappointed with its dial as described by Grand Seiko themselves: 

"Inspired by a particular aspect of the oceans that surround the Japanese archipelago and that are criss-crossed by water currents of great power. One such is the Kuroshio Current, also known as the Black Stream. It flows northwards past Japan towards the Arctic North Pacific and is one of the largest ocean streams in the world. The dynamic and sometimes violent tides caused by the Black Stream inspire the deep black color and richly textured surface of the dial of this new 200m diver's watch." 

 

Grand Seiko Spring Drive Chronograph GMT SBGC251

Like the diver we just took a look at, the latest Spring Drive powered chronograph GMT SBGC251 follows the same updated Evolution 9 design precedent and features an external 24-hour bidirectional bezel for a total tracking ability of three timezones. Once more, despite its 45mm case size, the high-intensity titanium case is lighter and more scratch-resistant than steel which should aid wearability. Textbook Grand Seiko attributes appear here, most notable its high level of finishing from each case angle to dial furniture. Technically this piece has a lot going for it. Not only is it a Spring Drive movement, but it's also a column-wheel chronograph with a vertical clutch. Furthermore, the local hour hand can be independently set, meaning we have a true traveller's watch on our hands. Busy watch dials can either be a disaster or a triumph. Fortunately, due to the carefully considered placement of its function, this SBGC251 is an example of the latter. 

 

Oris

Oris ProPilot X Calibre 400 

Oris had a two-pronged attack at Watches and Wonders this year: continuing to roll out their new in-house movement and introducing a somewhat of a sleeper hit into their ProPilotX range. Previously housing only a Calibre 115 powered model, the ProPilot range has stood as a portal into the future of what Oris will look like. Historical references litter the rest of their catalogue, but here expect to find fresh takes and forward-thinking evolutions. This year, they continued along this same path, but now in a 39mm size, featuring their newly developed Calibre 400 movement and with a contemporary approach to the pilots watch. The watch is about producing a robust mechanical watch first, with aviators ties to follow behind. It's worth taking a peep at the clasp on this guy, which is inspired by aeroplane seatbelts.

This is the pilot's watch reimagined for modern living with a class-leading movement at a remarkably competitive price point. Essentially, its Oris doing what Oris does best.

 

Sinn

Sinn 556 2022

Another fan favourite is Sinn, and this year they brought the colour! Typically known as one of the most straightforward and purest expressions of the German watchmaker, the 556 range recently discovered the shelf where Sinn keeps its paint as the dateless models are available in four pastel-coloured dials. From citrine yellow, carnelian red, emerald green, and the colour of the moment, aquamarine blue. The models are limited to 400 pieces per dial colour, and due to their unconventional metallic tone, approachable price points, and application on a straightforward model, these are sure to fly.

 

Sinn U50 

Back in January, we ran through the Sinn U50 story discussing how it came to be as well as the full scope of options available at the time. Well, we only had to wait a few more months to discover another addition to this newly formed model family: the U50 S BS. This new expression of the U50 retains all of the compelling attributes that make the U50 S and introduces a new fumé esque blue dial. This gradient dial starts as a misty black around the periphery and quickly intensifies into a mysterious tone of blue. Limited to just 500 pieces, this brilliant addition to the U50 range looks like a clever continuation of one of the coolest diving watches available today that looks the part and delivers.

Click here to learn the U50 story so far. https://www.james-porter.co.uk/journal/a-deep-dive-into-the-sinn-u50/

Other notable updates

6068B, 6060B, EZM 13.1,103

 

NOMOS

NOMOS Club Campus 2022

Continuing on the theme of colour, NOMOS looked towards their youthful, playful model series known as the Club Campus for two new dial colours, ‘Deep Pink’ and ‘Blue Purple’. Said to represent the optimism that comes with the changing seasons, these new additions come at a perfect time for a community actively engaged in colourful watches right now. In NOMOS’ case, this is by no means a trend for the Glashütte based watchmaker, making these additions bound for popularity and crucially still within what we expect and love about NOMOS.

 

Muhle Glashütte

The Teutonia IV Bluemoon

From one Glashütte based watchmaker to another, Muhle Glashütte has certainly been busy recently with a quartet of fresh new models that truly have something for all preferences—starting with the latest variation of the Teutonia IV: Bluemoon. As the name suggests, this piece carries a range of blue tones throughout its dial, from its large moonphase aperture to its royal blue dial base and even vibrant pops of blue above each quarter-hour marker. At 39mm in width, this sub 40mm piece is classically elegant and brilliantly proportioned. 

 

The 29ER Big

Not all water-themed pieces must be divers, and the 29ER is living proof. What the Aqua Terra is to the Omega Seamaster, the 29ER is to Muhle’s S.A.R Rescue-Timer, and this latest Big variation carries a super sleek and thoroughly contemporary silvery personality. Its grey dial is flanked by a darker grey rehaut housing the chapter ring which is a tone replicated for the date aperture and the strap. In addition, a pop of colour in the form of a red seconds hand keeps this piece from feeling monochrome and conventional. 

The Teutonia IV Lady

Cleverly integrating 18-carat yellow gold on its bezel, this Teutonia IV Lady is a 33.5mm exquisite dress watch that can accompany you daily. Thanks to that two-tone execution, matching this piece to jewellery is a breeze and its white dial paired with golden dial furniture and even a date aperture at six makes this a one-stop shop for smaller wristed watch fans. Powered by the Sellita SW 200-1, this piece is by no means a slouch mechanically either. 

 

DOXA

SUB Whitepearl

Doxa is one of a few brands that historically have made the most of colour throughout their decades. They were doing colour before it was ‘21st-century cool’, but for 2022 they decided to take a step back from vibrant tones and keep things simple but undoubtedly effective. Doxa went all-in on the monochrome, releasing Whitepearl examples of all of their core collections. We’re talking Sub 1500T, 600T, Sub 300, 300T, and 300 Carbon. If you’ve ever fancied adding a Doxa to the collection (join the club) but perhaps weren’t the biggest fan of the bright dials, these stylish new additions breathe new life and soul into historically rich references. Another set of serious contenders for summer watches ‘22.

 

If any of the above watches have piqued your interest, please do reach out to James Porter and Son and register your interest today.