"I know mathematically we're in the 21st century, but who is shaping this century? Who is in command? It's all people like me who were born in the 20th century. Our methods, our concepts, our philosophies. The century needs not a new date but a new approach. "

Those words were uttered by Mr Jean-Claude Biver in April 2020 when discussing with Wei Koh the impact of COVID-19. Like the majority of things that Biver says, I find myself periodically reflecting on his views when considering the watch industry. The previous quote often comes to mind when new watches are released and how they're handled, or when fresh watch designs are brought to market, various marketing strategies deployed, photography, and the language used by brands and fellow industry friends alike. The widespread interest in watches seems to have shifted up a gear during the past 24 months, with auction results and which wrist the coveted Tiffany & Co 5711 has newly been spotted on becoming hot, mainstream topics.

New watch releases such as the MoonSwatch (more on that in a moment) temporarily disrupted the internet. Year after year, despite the recent slight downturn in grey-market prices, the latest Rolex releases continue to be met by an influx of wishful owners and hype-feeding hunters. You could argue that those happenings have a slight whiff of negativity for most regular watch-loving folk, but on a positive note, the more interest in watches, the greater the chance of further development and advancement of watchmaking.

The Rise of Cottage Watch Brands

Watches have become increasingly open and unrestricted. Although luxury watchmakers continue to raise their prices year on year, and the supply of the hottest pieces cannot keep up with the demand, there is no shortage of stimulating methods to strap an expressive timekeeper to the wrist. The rise of the microbrand might be the perfect melting pot of this concept, with the likes of Studio Underd0g — a UK-based microbrand founded by Richard Benc in 2020— demonstrating that enjoying watches shouldn't be taken so seriously. What began as an enthusiastic way of passing the relentlessly tentative hours of lockdown has resulted in a full-time gig for Richard as he continues to offer funky, affordable and subsequently desirable watches that don't take themselves too seriously. He joins the extensive list of microbrands that have materialised ideas and been able to provide watch fans with a near-endless choice of watch styles at all price points. Sharing some similarities in their approach are brands such as NORQAIN. This Swiss watch brand came to recognition with real conviction and determination to produce rock-solid and impressive watches that rival household names in the watch scene. Their movements are produced by Tudor-owned Kenissi, a manufacturing company that also creates Tudor's in-house calibres. This independent watch brand also works with non-other than Jean-Claude Biver to propel them forward.

Studio Underd0g founder, Richard Benc
Studio Underd0g founder, Richard Benc wearing the Strawberries & Cream.

21st-Century Vintage

Suppose budding fresh-faced, newly converted watch enthusiasts want to show their appreciation for the historical side of horology. In that case, re-editions of original vintage watches are the perfect way to turn. What was once only achieved by owning genuine vintage pieces generally fraught with potential headaches has now been achieved painlessly. DOXA, Hamilton, Oris, and even behemoth brands such as Seiko continue to authentically re-imagine models from their past collections with the utmost respect. As a result, now more than ever, modern wrists can appreciate the origins of a watch design without a second thought (or a second mortgage).

The new DOXA Army watch
The modern iteration of the DOXA Army.

Modern Watches

Contemporary, creative fun in watches is perhaps best epitomised by the likes of NOMOS Glashütte. Propped up by their Bauhaus style, NOMOS has introduced seriously tasty pops of colour to their range, with the likes of the Club Campus series being squarely aimed at the young, new collectors. NOMOS has real power behind its punches, though, with magnificent in-house production, including their own escapement known as the swing system. Visually their pieces are striking, and technically they're bold in their conviction, capable of offering watches that appeal to various tastes.

Arguably the hottest release of 2022, and one which will likely remain unrivalled for some time, is the Omega x Swatch MoonSwatch. Released right at the peak of new watch season and before the OMEGA-less Watches and Wonders Geneva, this release was a collaboration between Swatch Group-owned OMEGA and everyone's favourite inexpensive and colourful brand Swatch. Officially cased in Swatch's bio-ceramic, these watches depict points of interest in our solar system through the core Speedmaster platform. The real kicker? This non-limited edition collection comes in at a hair over £200. It was an announcement that simultaneously broke the internet and high streets across the globe in a manner more suited to the streetwear world than our humble, somewhat insular watch world. Suddenly everyone had no choice but to pay attention to what was happening; even my close family (who still doesn't quite understand my work) asked me about it. So, for the first time in a tangible manner, one and all can own an accurate slice of horology pedigree for funds even the most novice of watch owner could tolerate. The current time-sensitive caveat to mention here relates to the unprecedented demand that has resulted in a lack of availability of these watches. Swatch is simply unable to produce them quickly enough, causing what was said to be an initial pause in their plans to roll out the watches online, to now a confirmed ‘Swatch boutique only’ roll out.

The Omega x Swatch Moonswatch Mission to Mars watch on TheWatchDude2's Wrist
The Omega x Swatch MoonSwatch: Mission to Mars - Photo courtesy of @TheWatchDude2.

The MoonSwatch is a creation to this day that I'm amazed actually came to fruition. With OMEGA so willing to share one of their most valuable IPs and genuinely iconic platforms with Swatch for less than the cost of their 007 Bond NATO strap is unheard of. One brand that can attest to executing a similar level of influence is TAG Heuer and their F1 watches, which debuted in 1986. To understand this comparison a little deeper, I chatted with a man with first-hand experience of TAG Heuer during this era, thanks to his time at the brand, Jonathan Scatchard. Now one-half of vintageheuer.com, Jonathan has a wealth of knowledge and experience, including the significant role he played in the curation of the very first Heuer thematic auction by Sotheby’s.

"Swatch dominated the eighties thanks to their bold use of colour. However, when TAG Heuer came out with the F1, although it was slightly more expensive, it was perceived as a 'proper' watch from a serious brand. It was a release that firmly put TAG on the map and helped get a younger generation onto the luxury watch ladder. An old saying at the time was, 'Start with an F1 at 18, a TAG Heuer at 21, and a Rolex at 30.' The F1 had stockists in every town and city, meaning it was incredibly effective in reaching many wrists. Once the availability of the MoonSwatch is sorted out, there's no reason why it won't become mainstream and have a similar impact as the F1".

It seems the MoonSwatch is primed to become the ultimate gateway into harder-hitting, more pungent watchmaking; it's only a matter of time and availability.

Communication

Not only are the watches themselves becoming more welcoming, but so is how people discover them. Online destinations such as HODINKEE, with their top-grade level of welcoming communication, has secured their position as the place to turn to for approachable conversation about timekeeping. Their foothold is firmly established, and for newly converted watch fans who may have discovered the hobby from their content featuring Ed Sheeran or John Mayer, there is no better online destination to learn and indulge. There are other big-time players such as Fratello, Monochrome, Worn and Wound, and Time and Tide, who offer tailored opinions, conversation, and thought-provoking storytelling that assures a deeper descent into the watch appreciation abyss. A more recent wave of communication is the creators you can find on YouTube and Instagram, whose success is often driven by their personality, styles, and approachable nature. If, like me, you were posting watches on Instagram before COVID, you'll be able to relate when I say the platform is now an entirely different beast. The style of photography has evolved tremendously, with waves of enthusiasts dominating feeds nearly as much as Reels. Quick looks at watches in various environments and nuggets of personal experiences have made Instagram a breeding place for a developing species of watch fans. No more do the majority looking to seek collector's opinions have to make a beeline to watch forums. Now collectors, both established and fresh, need only to open Instagram, follow a few pages and start their journey right there on a platform they already have a familiar addiction with. 

Watch Retail

Watch retail is another clear example of evolution with the likes of James Porter & Son, who recently opened their new multi-brand watch boutique with experts to hand (learn more here), ready and waiting armed with real watch knowledge. Topper Jewelers out of California is a comparable retailer that has fully embraced the watch culture, with numerous stand-out limited editions to their name. Not only is physical retail adapting, but online retail is booming, despite some brands thinking of it as a passing trend, e-commerce of brand new, pre-owned, and vintage watches is flourishing. It's the same story with watch auctions, as Phillips in 2020 registered a record number of bidders (2,300) choosing to get in on the action from the comfort of their homes rather than in auction rooms. 

The new James Porter & Son multi-brand watch boutique inside the Glasgow Argyll Arcade
The new James Porter & Son boutique located in Glasgow's famous Argyll Arcade.

A Shifting of Culture and Style

There's a broader conversation to be had here about stylistic and cultural preferences. The law of the wrist land has been up for contention for some time now. Ushered by the enlarged watch craze of the 2000s, the spoken rules on when and how to wear certain watch styles have become increasingly obsolete in recent decades. Diving watches with rotating bezels and plenty of lume is standard practise for office wear, and the conventional dress watch enjoys pairings with grey and suede straps throughout everyone's collections. Watches in smaller sizes are more welcomed, and the unification of gender-specific pieces is both refreshing and prominent. I touched on it earlier, but pop culture continues to have an impact, with well-known faces being spotted wearing recognisable hyped watches on the wrist just as much as pieces with true horological prowess. Sure, we still see plenty of the 5711, Richard Milles, Jacob and Co, and the Royal Oak Offshore, but there has been a shift. Individuals such as Tyler the Creator have followed in Kanye's Cartier Crash footsteps and taken an interest in the mystical world of vintage Cartier, and fellow rapper Travis Scott who, between wearing his Royal Oak Frosted Gold Double Balance Wheel Openworked "Rainbow" ref 15468BC, has also been seen wearing the Patek Philippe World Time ref. 5131G-001.

Drake even picked up a Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse ref. 3609/1 A. It's not just music stars, though, as English striker Harry Kane has been spotted wearing a platinum Patek Philippe Split Seconds Chronograph 5370P. A serious piece of watchmaking pedigree that is a different beast from the likes of Hublot and Rolex that seem to be fan favourites of the footballing world. This might sound a bit irrelevant, but people pay attention to these public figures, and their influence is tangible. The meaning of a mechanical watch has transcended its earliest purpose to now stand as totems of self-expression and as portals into the personality of the wearer. Proudly celebrating hobbies and passions is unequivocally mainstream now, and watches fall squarely in that category. 

An Exciting Time For Timekeeping

With the over-digitalisation of almost every aspect of our lives, a refreshing level of disconnect is possible when wearing a watch that isn't capable of receiving texts and reminding you to breathe. It's a personal experience that connects the wearer to the watchmakers and technicians who crafted them not through a DM but through each essential component. Thankfully, this form of self-expression is slowly being democratised by the day, something which I see as a positive. However, let's not forget that this narrative is driven by consumers, not a forced agenda by marketing executives. This natural evolution has been on the cards for a while now. Still, it seems watch fans who walk around checking their wrist with admiration and passion have plenty to be excited about, whether they're seasoned collectors or as fresh-faced as an Instagram story.