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The Return Of The Underrated Diver - The Maurice Lacroix PONTOS S Diver
Ten years later its back, and looking better than ever.
In 2018, one of the first watches that came away with me and I lived with ahead of a review was a Maurice Lacroix. It joined me on a summer holiday to a Greek island (Paxos if you were wondering). Although the watch at the time had already been out for five years, it held up exceptionally well when compared to the competitive diving scene of '18. It demonstrated to me that if you prioritise quality and execute with conviction, the result has the potential to excel. The watch in question – the Maurice Lacroix Pontos S Diver. Another five years on from that early review of mine, the since-discontinued model is back with a significantly fresh update that brings it bang up-to-date and right back into the collection.
Those keeping tabs on Maurice Lacroix would have seen that the Aikon has been the centre of attention as of late. The integrated bracelet luxe sports watch seems to be a one-way ticket to success, and Maurice Lacroix deserves praise for how they have rolled out new iterations and bespoke approaches to this style. With an array of variations from upcycled plastic-cased models such as #Tide, to an expansion of their steel models in all colours of the rainbow, the Aikon is a winner. But ten years after its introduction, the Pontos S Diver has learnt from the Aikon, bringing something to the table for everyone.
The Watch
From household names to new kids on the block, diving watches are the types of watches many of us wear regularly, and in the low thousands of pounds bracket, things get competitive and fast. For the return of the Pontos S Diver, Maurice Lacroix set about altering the micro and the macro from its debuting release last decade, with perhaps one of the most signficant micro changes being its size.
A one-millimetre reduction in width from 43mm to 42mm alters the proportions of this piece in a manner more impactful than it sounds on paper, as well as the introduction of a grained texture to the dials of the blue and black references and a colour match aperture for the date a six. The water resistance rating typeface has also moved from its unusual placement at twelve to the more conventional six o'clock position. Again, these are subtle differences at face value, but once amalgamated together, they’re undoubtedly impactful.
At the macro level, we've got some unpacking to do, as although the same great super compressor style case remains along with the inner lumed rotating bezel, the 2023 Pontos S Diver is now only rated to 300m instead of 600m. That may seem like a downgrade, but in real-world terms, it very much isn't. Most of the greats of the diving world top out at 300m, so considering the 1st gen Maurice Lacroix was 15mm thick, whereas now it's only 13mm, that dropping of resistance has made way for a more comfortable form while retaining highly proficient and capable diver credentials; I like the sound of that. This halving of the water resistance has also seen the departure of the helium escape valve. Again, a sensible tradeoff in favour of versatility. Maurice Lacroix worked with Swiss marque and brand crew member Lidija Lijić, a relatively talented freediver, to develop these changes. In fact, that's a huge understatement, as she currently holds the record for staying underwater for 5 minutes and 43 seconds. If you want to talk about endurance and performance, Lijić is the woman who knows that better than anyone, with her skills and wealth of knowledge and experience being harnessed in the development of this Pontos S Diver.
This second-gen also sees the introduction of a second case material, the diving watch darling of materials, bronze. Many a praised diver has toyed with bronze, and here Maurice Lacroix dips their toe into the water with a lovely dark blue dial to boot. Finished with bronzed and white dial accents, this reference is a limited edition of just 500 pieces. The two remaining configurations on launch are the steels, one with a black-grained dial and one with a white lacquered one. The closest model to the original is the black dial, although it's worth noting that orange and white accents contrast the textured dial instead of red, cream, and white as seen in 2013 (again, I also like the sound of that). Of the three models, the white is the most striking, as lovely royal blue accents playfully contrast its crisp white lacquered dial. Few watches can pull off an aesthetic as dynamic as this, but the white Pontos S absolutely rocks it.
And the movement? Well, that remains unchanged. It's still the ML115, a Sellita SW200-1-based calibre boasting 38 hours of autonomy at 4 Hz, and is hacking. There's a reason so many brands turn to Sellita, and in a watch that seeks reliability and purpose, it's a fitting choice by Maurice Lacroix.
Initial Thoughts
You may have already picked up on this based on my short anecdote at the top of this story, but I do have a soft spot for the Pontos S Diver. It feels like a plucky underdog, often underappreciated in favour of the more mainstream-abiding releases. Maurice Lacroix has clearly shown the series the time and development attention it deserves, and I hope it marks the start of a turning of the tides in that regard. I'm delighted to see it back in the lineup, as, despite models more tailored to everyday wear, it feels worthy of becoming the staple of the Pontos series. From the compressor-style case to its newly nuanced dial, it's a model with a specific personality that nails the professional-grade appearance and, crucially, the performance.
Pontos S Diver Bronze Limited Edition
An overarching sense of optimism is the lasting impression for this comeback, and that's down to a couple of reasons. To start with, it's a watch not overly reliant on heritage-derived visual cues. Sure, the compressor-esque case is perhaps the most significant exception, and the grained dials of the blue and black model indeed could be interpreted as hinting at history, but they don't hit you in the face like fauxtina does. I'm not going to sit here and say I wouldn't want to see Maurice Lacroix take a crack at a vintage-inspired Pontos S Diver in the future (quite the opposite), but evidently, it can exist and thrive without the shackles of vintage so fundamental to its realisation.
We're also getting a compelling yet albeit concise range of variations from day one. It may only be three models, but considering the varied executions between each, I see this as good as a promise for more based on the brand's penchant for variation (see previous comments regarding the Aikon, but also the extent of their creativity within their masterpiece collections).
For me, it's the white reference that I keep staring at for its bold appearance and embodiment of the revitalisation this series has experienced. Still, there's no denying the black and blue references with their textured canvas, deliver professional-grade execution bringing the fight to many similarly priced watches. This is stage one of the Pontos S Diver's return, and you already know Maurice Lacroix has plenty more ideas up its creative sleeves with this one.
And with that, there is only one thing left to say. The Pontos S Diver is back, and hopefully, this time, it's here to stay.
Shop the Pontos S Diver "Orange" here.
Shop the Pontos S Diver "White" here.
Shop the Pontos S Diver "Bronze" here.
Specification
Case diameter: 42 mm
Case height: 12 mm
Case material: Stainless steel/bronze
Case setting: No
Water resistance: 30 ATM
Dial :
Orange - Black grained dial with orange tip printing, and date at 6 o'clock
Bronze - Dark blue grained dial with white tip, 4N gold M-logo and date at 6 o'clock
White - White lacquered dial with blue tips; rhodium-plated M-logo and date at 6 o'clock
Strap / Bracelet:
Orange - Black nylon strap with tone-on-tone stitching, rhodium-plated M-logo and Easychange system or Orange rubber strap with embossed Maurice Lacroix and Easychange system
Bronze - Blue Rubber and vintage dark blue leather strap with 4N gold M-logo, 2 light grey stitched lines on the sides and Easychange system
White - Dark blue nylon strap with tone-on-tone stitching, rhodium-plated M-logo and Easychange system and white rubber strap with embossed Maurice Lacroix and Easychange system
Buckle: Bronze or Stainless steel pin buckle
Movement: Automatic ML115
Functions: Hours, minutes and central seconds.
Date at 3 o'clock.
Tim Vaux
Freelance Writer
Having written, spoken about, and taken pictures of watches professionally since 2017, Tim Vaux is a UK-based watch writer with a healthy obsession for all things horology. Be it halfway up a mountain with a rugged tool watch or suited and booted accompanied by a tastefully sophisticated dress watch, communicating real-world experiences and relatable characteristics of timepieces is what makes Tim tick. From watches costing £100 up to multiple hundreds of thousands, Tim has a specialist skill and understanding of a plethora of mechanical watches through his writing and camera lens. A particular appreciation for the cultural impact of watches, elegantly refined timepieces, and thought-provoking storytelling are the main factors that perpetually maintain his passion for horology.
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