Arguably the singular aspect of watchmaking that makes it so alluring is, well, the fact there isn't just one. There are many different ways to connect with horology. A fascination with engineering and understanding of how things work, an appreciation for style while following the cultural impressions watches have on the world, design aficionados that obsess over proportions and composition, or being enamoured by the historical side of this centuries-old craft. There are plenty of angles to consider, but the one which binds them all is the inescapable antiquated practice of wearing obsolete technology in a world where everyone is tracking their 10,000 daily steps. But why is this the case? Why, in a world where cars are driving themselves (yup, it's happening, people), do we still so affectionately yearn for these souvenirs of the past? 

I'm sure there's some profound psychological answer to that question that people far more qualified than me can answer, but when it comes to watches, heritage, nostalgia, and 'vintage inspired' are engrossed into the DNA of this industry. Brands play on this, releasing new watches that offer us a slice of what our ancestors enjoyed decades prior.

To varying degrees, almost all brands partake in the business of 'vintage', and one of the latest to do so is DOXA.

The DOXA SUB 300T Clive Cussler

In recent years, DOXA has been doing a stellar job at reminding the world about its longstanding diving credentials dating back to the original SUB 300 of 1967. They may not have been one of the first manufacturers to release a diving watch, but they most certainly produced one of the most purpose-built machines. A machine that continues to shape the landscape of DOXA to this day. Without plunging too deep into their diving credentials (that's what this article is for: https://www.james-porter.co.uk/journal/why-everyone-loves-doxa) DOXA's ability to build dependable and functional diving watches has never gone unnoticed, with renowned American author and underwater explorer known for his adventure novels, Clive Cussler, being a devoted advocate.

The most famous character of Cussler's oeuvre is undoubtedly Dirk Pitt, as over 25 thrilling novels he explores the depths of the sea, uncovers hidden treasures, solves mysteries, and faces various dangers and adversaries. And what watch did Cussler write for Pitt to be wearing? You've guessed it, an orange SUB 300 Professional. With this significant tip of the hat from Cussler, DOXA has released a special edition SUB 300T that celebrates Cussler, and let me be the first to tell you this is far more than a slight dial change and a caseback engraving.

Ironically, you are looking at a watch with a new dial and caseback engraving, but that's only a fraction of the story. Still realised in stainless steel with all the exact measurements as the standard 300T, this new Cussler edition applies a distressed treatment to the case, bracelet, and bezel, as if it has just emerged from the depths within Pitt's grasp. I can think of a small handful of manufacturers that have gone down the path of producing watches made to look like they have weathered many adventures and survived the passage of time, and this purposeful distressing appears brilliantly executed. To clarify, this is a totally new watch that intentionally looks aged, worn, and with a history to tell. Now if that's not the perfect mark of respect to one legendary storyteller, then I don't know what is. 

The dial doubles down on the concept of discovery with a rose-compass motif central to the aged tan dial, which carries a scratched texture throughout. With matching beige lume and a date aperture at three, this individual dial is quite the departure from the brand's typical penchant for bright and bold colours, and I can't help but be struck by how this straying from form suits the SUB 300 platform. They've already explored the super modern with 300 Carbon and the SUB 200, so it only makes sense that they look backwards. Black hands and dial printing ensure legibility, while the 7th,15th, and 31st dates are realised in red to mark the birthdate of the adventure-driven author. I'm particularly fond of the stacking of beige here and its likeness to old nautical charts – very stylish, DOXA.

The caseback I alluded to earlier is also of note, as it's jam-packed with engravings of more than 72 shipwrecks and artefacts that NUMA (National Underwater and Marine Agency) has discovered or surveyed. This non-limited but numbered piece isn't going to be one you'll see every day, but when you do, you'll be able to spot its number and additional engravings on the edge of the bezel, only visible when the watch is at an angle. 

Sub 300T Clive Cussler case back with engravings

Available for £2,590 on the beads of rice bracelet with matching beige NATO thrown in, the 300T is a watch which wears its past on its sleeve and stands right next to the SUB 300 Carbon – albeit for very different reasons – as one of the most visually intriguing releases from DOXA in years. Its pre-patinaed appearance is compelling, especially considering it's from an outfit ready for exploration.

Cussler's contributions to the adventure and thriller genres and his passion for marine research have made him a revered figure in the literary world. His legacy continues to inspire readers who enjoy thrilling tales of adventure and discovery, and his impact on DOXA is immeasurable. As an owner and passionate believer in their pieces, Cussler's influence is further immortalised in this evocative and spirited special edition.

Sub 300T Clive Cussler presentation box in hand.
The DOXA SUB 300T Clive Cussler presentation box.

So really, what is it about heritage that we love?

Diving deeper into the latest DOXA has only left me wondering further about history and why we watch folks cherish it. Perhaps much of it comes down to looking backwards through rose-tinted lenses, but the purity of wearing a mechanical watch that requires human input to create is inherently humbling. What art is to photography, mechanical watchmaking is to the digital world, a personal and expressive detox that's poetically constrained by the limitation of gears, screws, jewels, and springs. These 'vintage inspired' esque creations provide a direct line and connection to bygone eras, when watches were essential, life was more straightforward, and our worlds smaller. 

It's the mid-20th century of watches that have been the subject of interest for many today, and with dozens of beloved models and designs being born in this era, it's easy to see why. At the time of their creation, it's difficult to believe the people behind the brand's creating the earliest editions of watches could comprehend the extent of influence their creations would have on the world. That charming innocence in execution seemingly evokes a strong sense of nostalgia and sentimentality so fundamental to horology. Maybe we're all just a bunch of hopeless romantics, but vintage pieces are filled with wonder, and it seems present-day releases continue to capture snippets of that charm while ensuring carefree wrist time and a deeper connection to the longstanding heritage of watchmaking – everyone's a winner. 

Sub 300T Clive Cussler on beige nato strap lying on book

Shop the DOXA SUB 300T Clive Cussler here.