It's All About The Laurel - 110 Years Of Seiko Watches

Seiko is undoubtedly one of the most popular watch brands on the planet. Most of us have or at least had one in our watch box, as they continued to be the go-to brand internationally for those seeking a watch that over-delivers at its price point. Then there's Grand Seiko. Once a part of Seiko but now standing on its own two feet, the Japanese proponent of zaratsu polishing has re-defined expectations within the 'entry-level luxury' sector by democratising haute finishing and technical innovations such as Spring Drive. Credor shares a similar relationship to the afore houses, owned by Seiko, yet operated independently to occupy the upper echelon of artistic watchmaking.

A lot stems from Seiko, and there's plenty to celebrate (this is something I've done quite a lot of on this very website), but while our Japanese trailblazing friends continue to innovate, a look backwards demonstrates that they've been at it for a few years; as of 2023, 110 of them, to be precise. To mark the occasion, Seiko has announced a neat selection of new limited edition references that, through noteworthy models and names from the past 110, honour the one that started it all, the Laurel. A white dialled watch with a red Breguet numeral at twelve and blued hands, the Laurel was the first watch Seiko founder Kintarō Hattori ever produced in 1913. 

For their centenary in 2013, Seiko redesigned and brought back the legendary 44GS for the then Grand Seiko' collection', they released a special edition Monster, along with new 9F Quartz models and Solar powered references. It was a crowd-pleasing way of celebrating the big 1-0-0. Now ten years later, and in a very different world to 2013, what does Seiko have for us?

Seiko Prospex Alpinist GMT SBP409

The Alpinist's stock price has exploded since Seiko brought it back within the Prospect line in 2019, evolving from a cult classic to a widespread superstar. The original Alpinist was first created in 1959 for the 'Yama-otoko' Japanese mountain men and blended quite a dressy core DNA with a bold application of lume with striking hour markers (a design Seiko has already re-interpretated back in 2021 with the SPB243J1). Rather interestingly, the Alpinist underwent an evolution during the 1990s with the announcement of the Red Alpinist in 1995 within, funnily enough, the Prospex line. Despite this being the first time the collection was seen with an internal compass bezel operated by a second crown at four, the SARB series of Alpinists dating from 2006 - 2018 really put the watch on the map – at least in terms of the watch internet world.

After the recent announcement of the Alpinist GMT, Seiko brings a new take on the fully-fledged travelling Alpinist, the SBP409. Limited to 3,000 pieces worldwide, the talking point is the silver dial featuring red accents at twelve and its blue hands – a purposeful design choice implemented to recall the Seiko Laurel. This new edition is a sensible and fitting evolution of the Alpinist name, and its execution is highly classic compared to the more contemporary form of the non-limited GMTs. 

Seiko 5 Sports ‘Laurel’ SRPK41

A little more on the nose than the Alpinist, the 5 Sport 'Laurel' doesn't hide the source of its derivative design, favouring more of a beige-like dial colour over the 110-year-old Laurel's silver. The hands are still blue, and the red accent remains, but it's on the 24-hour scale that sits within the large Arabic numerals. As a package, it's a fantastic integration of the Laurel language into a collection that's perhaps the most recognisable from Seiko. First released in 1963, the Seiko 5 ushered in multiple innovations for the Japanese manufacturer, from its 'unbreakable' mainspring known as Diaflex and Diashock – Seiko's crack at the Swiss Incabloc. The '5' aspect of its name is said to reference five core elements of the watches, although this has caused debate over the years. What we know for sure is that every Seiko 5 offers automatic movement, day and date apertures, a durable build including solid water resistance, a widespread range of options and variations, and superb wearability; this new limited edition of 6,000 is no different. 

The SRPK41 is offered as standard on a five-link (naturally) metal bracelet with curved ends to match the curve of the case, but an additional brown leather strap is also included. An added touch is that the leather for this strap is sourced from the Leather Working Group (LWG) organisation, a non-profit dedicated to sustainable leather production. 

Seiko Presage Craftsmanship Enamel SPB401

Next, we have the most directly comparable 110th-anniversary release to the pioneering Laurel in the form of a fresh-faced Presage. In fact, that face is more than fresh, as here we see an enamelled white dial complete with a date sub-register at six, blue hands, but also the same Breguet numerals around its periphery in black, with the twelve in red. Even the centre of the dial is slightly recessed like the original, and its handset, although not an exact match to the 1913's spade set, are elegant and comparable in leaf form. The watch maintains its central seconds hand, with the sub-register tracking the date and a vertical register which reads the amount of power left in the watch in hours. Regarding daily wear-ready watches, the Presage line is one of the greats from Seiko. First rolled out in the 1960s, the Presage line maintains a subtle touch of elegance and refinement in its models, even when they get more sporty and contemporary. On this SPB401, the extremely comparable dial execution and enamel base are produced by hand by Japanese Takumi artisans via techniques often found in art and design. Enamel dials have a thick lustre that is difficult to emulate, and while this isn't the first time Seiko has produced an enamel dial, the impact is striking.

The most limited of the collection so far, only 1,500 of these will be produced, and with it is another leather strap with the leather coming from LWG-certified tanneries. 

Seiko Presage Style 60's SSK015

Staying within the Presage family, the latest Style 60s entry is this limited edition of 3,500, the SSK015. As per the earlier models, this edition has a Laurel-esque appearance and another new dial finish. Here, it's a warm silver tone with a mix of finishes from a compact vertically brushed chapter ring for the markers to a brighter silver for the rehaut and a pop of red at twelve. The blued hands aren't going anywhere, although now we're treated to a fourth hand, which allows us to track another timezone when used in conjunction with its fixed 24-hour bezel. For the travel watch buffs among us, it's a caller GMT powered by the Seiko Calibre 4R34. The Style 60's arm to the Presage is a classic case of the best of both worlds. Modern construction + timeless vintage design cues = a present-day winning formula, and with the additional functionality of this example, there's always an appropriate time to reach for this one.

Once again, we have a strap sourced from sustainable leather productions, and what's particularly nice here is how its NATO form and shade of brown leather are comparable to the official image Seiko distributes of the Laurel.  

Seiko Speedtimer Solar SFJ009

Easily the most striking of these releases is the Speedtimer Solar SFJ009, and it's far from conventional with its three pushers, four o'clock crown, and four registers. At 42mm, this steel chronograph is capable of timing 100th of a second, and due to its quartz solar calibre, its accuracy is measured as -15/+15 seconds a month. It also can operate for six months on a full charge of light. Of course, Laurel-inspired touches endure, with a two-tone vertically brushed silver dial, red via three of the hands, and even the contrasting black sub-registers are a nod to the bold black Breguet numerals of the OG. Fitted to a bracelet yet with a leather strap included, this is a subtly vintage take on the typically super modern-looking Speedtimer 1/100 Sec. Despite its space-age-like form, it can fly under the radar while maintaining a desirable level of uniqueness. And if you were wondering, it might be my pick of the bunch.

Seiko Presage Sharp Edge SPB413

Lastly, we return to the Presage family with (you know the script by now) a Laurel-inspired piece that brings a new dial texture. Still a silvery white, the watch has a range of depth and texture thanks to its traditional 'Asanoha' Japanese hemp leaf textured dial pattern. Combined with its raised markers, minute track, and excellent everyday versatility, this may be last, but it's certainly not the least. Although the lumed dauphine hands are not blue, the second hand is, with the drop of red subtly placed right at the top of the watch on the aforementioned minute track. Limited to 2,000 pieces, its evocative textured dial and its brushed and polished exterior, there's a case to be made that this is almost like a baby Grand Seiko, which is by no means a bad thing.

So there we have it, six fresh and different takes on classic Seiko models, all with Laurel-centric touches. It's a showreel of all the brand’s greats, fused together by the DNA of their first watch, each carrying distinctive dial finishes. A classy, well-executed, and remarkably subtle approach by Seiko on the occasion of 110 years of operation. And best of all, they're waiting for you today over at James Porter & Son, whether you come into the store or shop online.

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