In-Depth | The DOXA SUB 600T Caribbean

Rolex, Omega, Panerai, Blancpain - these four watchmakers each can lay claim to playing a pivotal role in the development and advancement of diving watches. But there's one often overlooked member who, although a smaller operation, impacted submersible watches in an undeniable manner. Famed for its colourful dials, chunky aesthetics, and instrument focused designs, Doxa has been the quiet king of the seas for decades. The Sub 300 is the much-loved poster boy, born in '67, worn by Jacques-Yves Cousteau, and still going strong in the watchmaker's collection today. It truly epitomises their appeal. However, in the 1980s, a successor came along in the shape of the Sub 600T featuring a new design released under the ownership of the Aubry Frères watch company. This new addition successfully carried the flame lit by the 300 the first time around, which begs the question - is that still the case in 2022? Can history really repeat itself?

The Doxa Sub 600T Caribbean

The 300 lays claim as being the model which put Doxa on the map and underwater during the late 1960s and since then has risen to legendary status. The modern iteration of the 300 is a similarly favoured example due to its historical accuracy to the OG and honest execution. But we're not here for the 300; today, it's all about the 600T and whether it has the ability to fill those big shoes. Following on from the 300, the 600T is undeniably a child of the 1980s. What was once a softly curvaceous conforming diver of the 60s and 70s evolved during the 80s into a chunky, angular, and aggressive looking beast. 21st century Doxa has stayed true to the design precedents of yesteryear with this Sub 600T, the Caribbean option in our case.

Its angular, blocky case is comprised of five strongly defined angles (not including the case back). Its vertically brushed case profile is smooth and gentle, with the only hint of drama coming from its 4:30 crown position and slanted suggestion of a crown guard. This rather clinically swiftly transitions into the polished bevel of the top of the case, which subtly tucks under the bezel towards the centre before flaring out again. And finally, the lugs are formed by two parts with one consistent angle running in line with the end link and the other sharply descending vertically to the wrist. This lug design and overall case configuration play a considerable part in its 40mm wide compactness.

On this specific 600T, we find a steel bezel complete with a polished serrated edge and a sandblasted finish on top. This hits home the tactile feel of a Doxa, especially with its US Navy no-decompression dive table scale split between two scales, an outer depth ring and an inner minute one. Most importantly, the bezel is incredibly easy to operate both off and on the wrist with a super satisfying click.

The dial of this piece is a textbook diving watch. We're talking bold features, contrast, dashes of colour, and luminescence - legibility done right. Where the 600T really excels, though, is in its level of coherence, from its rounded plots of lume complemented by shark tooth hour markers for twelve, six, and nine surrounded by matching colour, to its prominent minute hand in orange and white second and hour hand. What better colour to complement orange than a deep navy blue, and here on the Caribbean, it really sets this piece off.

Also available on a rubber strap with deployant clasp as well as this suitably chunky, angular bracelet, there is an appealing level of choice on offer with the Sub 600T range. Do you prefer your diving watches to have a more classic appearance? In that case, you'll want to configure your watch with a ceramic bezel - don't worry, every colour has this option available. Or how about really leaning into the Doxa DNA and rocking a bright colour? Orange, yellow, or even the colour of the moment, turquoise blue? The Professional, Divingstar, or Aquamarine then are here to accommodate. Again, there is a refreshing selection of watches with this range, which watch brands often tend not to offer. Arguably the Caribbean here walks the line perfectly balanced between the two.

Getting hands-on with the Sub 600T

The most prominent unavoidable trait of the 600T is its heft. At 14.1mm thick, with most of that thickness sitting in the case, there's no avoiding its height on the wrist. Typically, I prefer slender pieces over watches with all the chunk; traditionally, the thinner, the better. But, some pieces carry the extra weight exceptionally well and, in fact, actually suit it. The 600T is one such piece. After all, it's a 600m water-resistant diving watch, so a bit of thickness is to be expected. However, the remainder of its proportions are fantastic on the wrist. That 40mm width and the lug to lug distance of 47.7mm concisely ensures the watch hits a sweet spot that will please a ton of wrists.

Furthermore, thanks to its confident and direct case properties, what you see is what you get in terms of wrist presence. Finally, beating away at the heart of the 600T is the Sellita SW200-1 movement. This Swiss-made automatic movement comes with 38 hours of autonomy, 28,800 vph, and has reliability front and centre. When looking for a tool watch as practical as the 600T, you want a dependable and robust movement. The last thing you need when in harsh environments is a mechanical issue, and the Sellita provides reassurance that won't be a concern.

After some hands-on time with the watch, the most compelling aspect of the 600T has to be its character. Yes, other divers can get the job done, but with its distinctive execution, bold legibility, and tactile nature, the 600T is much more of an instrument tool watch first rather than a luxury-focused diver. The 600T deserves to be out in the wild and used.

What other Doxa models do you have to choose from?

As hinted throughout this piece, the Sub 600T isn't the only modern Doxa available at James Porter & Son, as two other models bring their individual personalities to the table. So let's take a quick top-level look at the other pieces the brand offers to help make that decision making process for you as smooth as possible.

The Doxa Sub 300

The legendary Doxa. It's easily the most recognisable model the brand has produced, making it for many the one to rock. However, it's worth noting that although its case comes in at 42.5mm wide, the aperture for the dial is considerably smaller than that at approximately 27mm, meaning that, in fact, it wears smaller in the flesh. Some more evidence that specifications aren't everything, people.

The Doxa Sub 200

The quintessential diver from Doxa comes in the form of the Sub 200. Re-released in 2019, this example is also a throwback design, however, it looks back to a time pre- Sub 300, which helps explain its more conventional exterior. Available starting from £910 and with a 42mm width and simplified dial furniture, this is a remarkable piece to scratch your Doxa itch.

Sure, it may not be recognisable as a Doxa right away, but it still retains Doxa's quality execution, and that's all that matters.

With an aggressive stance on the wrist, angular appearance, compact presence and incredibly charming personality, I'd say the 600T is the most unique out of the offerings and stands out the most for all the right reasons.

Final thoughts on the Sub 600T

So, we're left with only one question, is this a successor to the Sub 300? I'm inclined to say no, and that's why it's brilliant.

The 600T doesn't look to better the Sub 300 but rather sit parallel to it and deliver complementary features. Both models are noteworthy for various reasons, but the charm and character Doxa diving watches possess is eternal, no matter the case shape or era. These watches are from generations where the watch on your wrist was purely functional. Today, our world is less so about simply your watch telling the time but rather as a vehicle to communicate a piece of our DNA and preference. Thanks to the 600T having a narrative rooted in purposeful timekeeping, it makes the watch a superb, quirky option. Take the road less travelled and bag yourself a slice of the 1980s today from James Porter & Son. The Doxa Sub 600T is available starting from £1,300, click here to discover more.

Learn more about DOXA here.