Five Reasons The ProPilot X Could Be A Gamechanger For Oris

With an understanding of the values and desires of watch consumers bolstered by compelling storytelling through well-built and uniquely proprietary watches, one Hölstein based watch brand delivers across the board, and it's been doing so for years. This comes as more and more brands increase their prices, albeit some more justifiably than others. Contrast this with a declining Swiss watch export volume, and the result is, in theory, a focus shift towards buying less but better. And this is where those fan favourites can capitalise. Trusted names that emphasise innovation and consciously consider the end consumer continue to come out on top, reaping the rewards of brand awareness.

In real-world terms, this should translate to a tangible elevation of meaningful production that demonstrates brands are alert to newly savvy consumers and, quite simply, watches that we watch folk get excited about. That brand is Oris, and with the latest release being a Kermit Oris ProPilot X, I can’t help but consider the potential of this distinctive model series.

The ProPilot X, The Story So Far

Although the X debuted in all its avante-garde glory in 2019, the ProPilot series has been on the scene since 2014. Since the beginning, it's been a series that has prided itself on quality machining, contemporary styling, and a genuine focus on present-day functionality. This isn't just marketing talk, as these attributes can be felt within the design of the models, with ultra-legible dials carrying purposefully unfussy configurations.

Think of the ProPilot series as your go-to pair of hiking boots. Sure, you want them to visually appeal and look the business with the rest of your gear, but when all is said and done, they need to excel at keeping you on track as you embark on your next adventure. The ProPilot series is a pair of Merrells for your wrist: purpose lead, competent, and prepared to go the distance.

In 2019, Oris knocked the ProPilot into overdrive with the announcement of the ProPilot X (PPX) Calibre 115: a progressive pilots watch built around a skeletonised structure, blurring where the dial ends and the movement begins. Powered by the in-house Calibre 115, this ten-day strong movement was a big flex. By skeletonising a proprietary calibre and placing it in a 44mm matte titanium case with design vocabulary based upon abstraction, the PPX Calibre 115 felt like a top-of-the-line supercar. A show of excellence the creator can achieve while giving clues about what is to come for the rest of the line in the near future. 

And then 2022 happened. Round two for the ProPilot X, but now in a time and date 39mm model, with solid dials in three colours in front of the Calibre 400 – the future of Oris' in-house movement manufacture. Anti-magnetic up to 2,250 gauss, five days of autonomy, a 10-year warranty, and accuracy ratings within COSC, the Calibre 400 has been one of the most significant advancements for the brand in recent years, and its inclusion within the ProPilot X only hammered home its prospective significance. Oris showed us what was possible in 2019 and then in 2022 delivered the future. This release feels a world away from the heritage-oriented bronze cases and cathedral hands of the 65 Diver and Pointer Date, respectively, yet still stays so true to the brand's unpretentious mentality. But why could it be a game-changer, I hear you ask?

1) Forward-thinking only. 

As I alluded to only a couple of sentences ago, the ProPilot X is all about tomorrow. On the one hand, Oris is one of a few players that excel at vintage-inspired execution with a lineup dominated by references that evoke bygone eras. Yet, with this release, Oris displays their willingness to innovate and recognise that looking backwards can only carry them so far. Not only that but when held up to other pilots watches, the futuristic approach adopted for the ProPilot X is striking. 

The engine-turned style bezel evokes a machined and rugged appearance, the incomparable bracelet unites with the case wonderfully (check out how the end links with their defining horizontal line flawlessly continue the angle of the lugs), and its modest dial is cleverly restrained. An industrial sensibility has long been a favourite amongst highly regarded sports watches due in part to their ability to withstand time. Oris understands this and has executed something enduring and individual. 

2) You can't reinvent the wheel, unless you're Oris.

There's one key feature of the ProPilot X that needs to be addressed, and it's the Pilot aspect of its name. Upon first, second, and third glance, it's not abundantly clear that this is in fact a pilots watch. And that's for good reason. Take your current perception of what a pilots watch typically looks like and start afresh, as although important elements such as a reliable movement, legibility, and robustness remain, the conventional visual language of a pilots watch has been translated by Oris to reflect the modern interpretation of defined watch categories.

Pilots, diving, field, these categories today act more as guides for attributes and functions of watch design and construction rather than wholly fulfilling their named category's role. Of course, due to modern manufacturing, these pieces still should be able to fulfil and meet their category in their own right, but for the mainstream consumer, the functionality side of categorised watches isn't as significant as it once was. These clear-cut, defined categories should guide the understanding a watch's story, not stand as a hard and fast rule.

The ProPilot X is appropriately universal and comprehends this evolved terminology, effectively using the category of a pilots watch to influence the execution of the piece rather than confine it. The lightweight titanium construction and fantastic reliability make it a wonderful choice when exploring overland. 100m of water resistance and its screw-down crown make it an exceptional watch when water is likely involved. Five days of autonomy and its universal styling allow it to thrive in daily life. The PPX isn't restricted by its pilot watch categorisation, just as the wearer isn't when wearing luxury watches today.

3) Movement proficiency.

The rollout of the Calibre 400 (a movement in development for five years) was a turning point for Oris. It certainly felt that way when it was announced, and now a couple of years later, the impact of this technical advancement is starting to be felt. The ProPilot X is the only collection exclusively powered by a manufacturer calibre, and in this case, the 400, a noteworthy calibre for several reasons. Firstly, with its advantageous headlining stats, it's a significant upgrade on the Sellita-based movements the brand uses elsewhere in its watches. It's been created from the ground up as a response to modern needs and has a solid performance. 120 hours of power reserve is achieved by two barrels, and thanks to re-designed gearing, the movement has an increased efficiency when using that power. Silicon features throughout the calibre to aid its anti-magnetic properties, and a 10-year service window impressively aligns with the brand's commitment to sustainability. There's a lot to like for movement buffs.

Of course, all of this impacts the watch's sticker price, positioning the series in the upper middle placement of price points for the brand. No one likes to feel like they're getting ripped off, and with the ProPilot X, you're not. Rather than an unjustified and unwarranted inflation of the price all in the name of brand realignment and quick wins, Oris has gone far out of their way to deliver a better product that is alert to what matters to consumers.

4) It's an ideal canvas for fun.

If there's one thing to commend Oris for (spoilers, there's more than one), it would have to be their creativity. The Aquis Upcycle tells the story about the issues surrounding plastic in the ocean by using recycled ocean plastic for the dial. The Sixty-Five Cotton Candy collection was a fresh breath of playful air. The Roberto Clemente Limited Edition wasn't just a wonderful vehicle to tell an important story; the watch embodied the story intelligently. Oris is comfortable with executing colour, experimenting with metals and finding unique ways of communicating engaging stories. 

They're not shy about letting their creative juices flow, and for the ProPilot X, 2023 was the year we discovered the next chapter of their expressiveness.

Now, I don't think many people expected Oris to release a watch created in partnership with Disney's The Muppets Kermit the Frog. This isn't the first time a watch brand has collaborated with a well-loved star like Kermit, but this is an excellent example of having fun while not alienating a fan base. Kermit only appears once on the entire watch, and even then, it's only on the first of every month in honour of 'Kermit Day'. Other than that, it's a punchy, vibrant green expression of the ProPilot X. And let's not forget, Oris maintains a unisex approach to their entire collection. No watch is off-limit to anyone, just like the realities of watch collecting. 

5) A platform begging for evolution.

Perhaps the point that highlights the PPX's potential the best is its foundations. The bracelet is distinctive and exceptionally well executed, the case and dial elements are equally so, and these easier-said-than-done components lead to a robustly versatile offering that makes me think – what could be next? Perhaps an even more avante-garde expression similar to the Cal 115 variation but in a new smaller size? Maybe some complications in the form of a chronograph or a GMT? Perhaps we'll see some new dial technique deployed to harness depth and texture? Who wants a steel reference? 

These ideas conceptually make sense in the 39mm PPX platform Oris has built here. There are no constraints in the form of historical accuracy, meaning Oris is only limited here by their imagination (and I suppose if their ideas are technically possible, but we'll leave that small caveat for the watchmakers). If there's one takeaway from this article, it's that Oris have an endless supply of creativity, and to my mind, the Pro Pilot X represents one of the most exciting developments for the brand.

Oris, you’re onto something here.

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Learn more about Oris here.