An Introduction to Fears Watches

Independent watchmaking and British brands. Two flourishing sides of horology that rightfully are garnering attention for their authentic passion paired with unique, creative expertise. A brand at the intersection of this meteoric rise is the independent, homegrown operation of Fears - a brand with a penchant for elegantly produced watches with designs that embody a classic British approach to craftsmanship. It all began in 2016 when Fears released their first watch, the Redcliff. Just twelve months later, they released their brand-defining Brunswick, and it seems every year since the Bristol-based maker finds a way to top the last. Cleverly teased releases, innovative projects, and a confident yet humble drive stand as unofficial pillars of the brand's legacy, all while serving watch collectors and enthusiasts worldwide.

But here's where things get even more interesting, as 2016 wasn't the brand's first shot at creating watches. It turns out Fears had gone down the watchmaking path previously, and for the current managing director, it's quite literally in his blood. The year was 1846, and the great-great-great-grandfather (Edwin Fear) of the current Managing Director (Nicholas Bowman-Scargill) founded a company out of Bristol and began producing his first pocket watch. From there, Fears would go on to employ a hundred watchmakers in Bristol, exporting watches to 95 countries and, in turn, becoming the largest watch manufacturer in the west of England. Their vast and in-depth heritage is one most watch brands can only dream of. So complete is their story that they even have a published book covering their entire history. 

Sadly the brand had to shut its doors in 1976, but after learning about the true depth of the family business from his mother over a Sunday lunch, Nicholas Bowman-Scargill left the security and prestige of being an apprentice watchmaker at Rolex in favour of restarting one of the oldest family-run watch companies in Britain. Seven years on from their first watch in the modern era, Fears has thrived. They excel with their attention to detail and commitment to providing unassuming watches crafted with seldom-seen techniques for their price points while demanding carefully considered and exacting standards. Their narrative is well-established, certainly whimsical, and you'll be pleased to hear there is quality substance and machining to back up their messaging. Its diverse model lineup tastefully epitomises the brand's #ElegantlyUnderstated tagline, with its loyal cult following growing internationally daily. 

The Brunswick

Despite the Redcliff being the first watch to mark the return of Fears, the Brunswick arguably bears the most significant impact on the brand. Acting as a fantastic universal canvas, the Brunswick can be seen throughout the Fears lineup in many different interpretations, from straightforward stainless steel examples to a precious metal piece with the option of diamond setting. The series itself takes its inspiration from a gentleman's cushion case watch from the Fears archives first made in 1924. Still, despite the similarities, it's more of a modernisation of its design rather than a re-issue. Not excessively sporty nor outright dressy, the Brunswick is an adaptable watch that works in just about any environment. That's undoubtedly a common phrase in the world of watches, but it's simply true in the case of the Brunswick. As a result, it's a compelling offering as it delivers a level of versatility without compromise. 

First realised measuring 38mm before a 40mm variation joined the permanent family in late 2022 (more on that soon), the Brunswick possesses fundamental attributes that ensure even when you strip the watch back to its barest form (a move the brand did with the Brunswick Pure to celebrates the model's fifth anniversary) it remains distinguishable as the classic Fears.

To start with, there's the cushion-style case that features zero flat surfaces – yes, that includes its slightly rounded case back – with a completely smooth holistic essence. Next is the use of Arabic numerals, including their proprietary 'Edwin' design, a specially developed typeface named after the founding father that evokes styles seen on models from the past. Taking second place on the 'instantly recognisable' front are the 'Fears’-shaped hands. Comparable to syringe hands with their delicate form yet distinctive appearance, these often skeletonised hands are the definition of classic and unassuming.

At the heart of the Brunswick is the manually wound ETA 7001 calibre. As a tried and tested, robust movement, this is a rock-solid choice for the Brunswick collection, with 46 hours of autonomy and a frequency of 21,600 vph. Better yet, Fears even go the extra mile and finish these movements in Britain with Côtes de Genève striping and Rhodium plating. Considering these watches are fitted with solid casebacks (display casebacks are available), it's an exemplary illustration of the levels Fears is prepared to go to with their watches. 

Now we all have a solid idea of what the Brunswick is all about, let's run through each variation currently available at James Porter & Son. 

The White

The definitive Brunswick, the White model was how the series was conceptualised, and although there have been some subtle dial tweaks over the years, for the most part, the watch remains unchanged. With Fears, there is always more than meets the eye, as its unassuming dial is, in fact, a hand polished multi-layered white lacquered one. The classic 'Fears’-shaped hands are produced here in the UK and are heat-blued stainless steel, further elevating the traditional nature of the Brunswick's qualities. Perhaps better than any other Brunswick 38, the White nails it on the versatility front, capable of moving up or down the dressy scale depending on the strap it's fitted to and the outfit it's paired with.

The Salmon

If you like your watches with extra charisma, let me introduce you to the Brunswick Salmon. First debuting in late 2020, the Salmon introduces colour, texture, and depth to the Brunswick format resulting in a watch which leans more into its dressy principles while still maintaining contemporary class and tons of visual intrigue. Featuring a vertically brushed copper salmon dial, the Brunswick Salmon possesses a unique glow on the wrist which, due to that texture, plays with light and shadow brilliantly. Fears achieved this visual effect by delicately brushing each dial along with galvanic coatings of 18ct rose gold and copper.

Oh, and did I mention that the brushing is done by hand, meaning no two Salmon examples are the same. That's neat if you ask me. You even benefit from additional texture thanks to the six o'clock subsidiary seconds counter featuring a concentric circle guilloché finish sunken for depth. On the topic of depth, the bespoke 'Edwin' numerals are diamond polished, sand-blasted, coated in anthracite to create a unique soft appearance, and then applied on the dial – by hand. Salmon dials are a hit with collectors, so it's likely no surprise to you when I say that the Salmon is up there with the White as the most popular watch the Bristol brand produces.  

The Champagne

Let's get a little more glamour into the conversation people, and take a look at the aptly named Brunswick Champagne. Released in 2022, the Champagne is a sparkling translation of the Brunswick language, commanded by its rich gold dial featuring a grain-like texture. The six o'clock subsidiary seconds counter features the concentric circle guilloché finish as seen on the Salmon, as well as the raised 'Edmin' numerals, but how the dial and numerals are finished varies from its Salmon counterpart. As its name suggests, the dial replicates the shimmering quality of a glass of champagne thanks to its coated layers of 18ct yellow gold adorning the glass bead blasted base. Much like the Salmon, champagne dials have been a mainstay within the industry for decades. The numerals are diamond polished to a mirror shine and then receive a black gold coating. Not many manufacturers produce grained champagne coloured like this one – certainly at this price – and models like this highlight the universal nature of the Brunswick. At the risk of sounding like a broken record, it is a classic.

Brunswick 40

So far, all the Brunswick models covered have clocked in at 38mm in width with that 7001 manual wind calibre, until now. Then, after years of demand for a larger Brunswick, Fears released the Brunswick 40, the most significant change the model had ever seen as the watch grew 2mm to a widely popular, more prominent 40mm size. But it was more than just a larger size people wanted. It seemed Fears had been carefully gathering all feedback from the Brunswick 38 since its inauguration and went all out for its larger sibling. The Brunswick 40 aims to tick many boxes the Brunswick 38 doesn't, so let's get into them.

Firstly, its new size. A move which opens the brand up to new wrists thanks to its bolder, modern wrist presence, Fears ensured to make the most of the increased mass as beating inside the piece is a top-grade ETA 2824-2 with a decorated rotor and the removal of its date mechanism. All very good choices if you ask me. And how about that new bespoke bracelet? Another first for the Brunswick is this five-link steel bracelet featuring a discreet enamelled Bristol flower within the clasp, which transforms the Brunswick platform. Water resistance is double from the Brunswick 38 to 100m, not that its clean, non-signed dial feels the need to mention this – a touch I personally enjoy a lot. The Brunswick Blue was first seen in the Brunswick 38 before disappearing from the range and returning here along with two new colours: Flamingo Pink and Silver. Crucially each of these options has their own distinctive styling choices. The last most significant change comes from its hands as they're now completely solid rather than skeletonised, and the brand dropped the sub-second for a large, elegantly sweeping central seconds. 

Don't just think this was Fears scaling up the 38 case and calling it quits. Oh no, the Brunswick 40 was re-designed to ensure all watch elements remained in proportion. If the Salmon and Champagne prefer the more dressy side of the Brunswick, the Brunswick 40 leans toward an active and dynamic lifestyle. The best part? Once you're done with your workout, wash the watch, and head straight out for that dinner reservation without changing anything about the piece. Serious adaptability here. 

Archival 1930

Recreating a 1930s art deco piece from their archive, the Archival 1930 was created to coincide with the brand's 175th anniversary in 2021, and Fears went the whole nine yards. Not only is it an accurate re-imagination of an original piece 90 years old, but the movement utilised is from the 1960s and is a new old stock ETA 2360 calibre. Now don't worry, Fears were sure to upgrade the mainspring for some extra reliability and fully rebuilt and reconditioned each movement, so perhaps more than any other re-issue style watch, you're getting a comprehensive slice of heritage.

It's worth highlighting the dial as well, as that golden-edged chapter ring is, in fact, an 18ct yellow gold plated border that plays off the soft hue of the champagne-like dial with so much charm. Better yet, if you head to your favourite Scottish retailer of Fears (that's James Porter & Son), you'll be able to acquire a rare example of the piece with a co-signed retailer dial. This is something you don't see all too often nowadays, but it's a fantastic addition that really sets off the dial with its tone matching the dial colour. When it comes to 'Elegantly Understated', it's hard to argue with the credentials of the Archival 1930.

Discover the Fears collection here.