Seiko recently dropped an unexpected bombshell on us by adding nothing short of an instant hit into their Seiko 5 Sports series. For those who aren't fully caught up, the Seiko 5 Sports collection is heavily based on the legendary SKX, a 200m diver with a well-loved appearance at a price point indicative of first watch recommendations. It swiftly became everyone's favourite darling diver, and the Seiko modding community continues to have a field day with its versatile and universally enticing platform. Yet, after 23 years of production, the SKX diver was discontinued in 2019, before the design was incorporated into the Seiko 5 family under the 5 Sports collection.

After quickly becoming colloquially referred to as the '5KX', Seiko showed signs of acknowledgement to the profoundly passionate community that had compounded around the original SKX by integrating more bold colours and styles into this new range. Seiko had successfully revitalised the SKX by bringing it in line with the rest of their dynamic range and thus ensured its DNA would remain accessibly enjoyed. But this year, Seiko had even bigger plans, as only recently they introduced three GMT models known as the Seiko 5 SKX Sports Style GMT and, well, they're as on the money as one could ever wish for. 

Available in black (SSK001), blue (SSK003), and orange (SSK005), these three new additions introduced way more than just the ability to track multiple timezones. These three colour options didn't come from anywhere but from the minds and dreams of the biggest Seiko fans. I think it's time we explore five key reasons to get excited about this jet-setting Seiko 5KX; See what I did there? All about the number five today.

Seiko 5 SSK003K1 worn on wrist
Seiko 5 Sports 'Blueberry' GMT SSK003K1

THE SKX HAS BECOME AN EVEN MORE DESIRABLE SPORTS WATCH

Standing as arguably the most desired functionality of a sport watches today, having the ability to track more than one timezone is extremely useful and something which I'm shocked we had to wait until 2022 to see made possible in the SKX family. This fourth hand carries a design that stylistically matches the piece perfectly, with enough nuance per variation to keep up with the rest of these highly legible dial configurations. Each watch has a 24-hour scale on its inner rehaut and rotating matching 24-hour bezels. Seiko deployed a brand new evolution of their 4R movements for the 5 Sports GMT known as the 4R34, and it comes with some respectable statistics, including its 41 hours of power reserve, hacking ability, 24 jewel count, and automatic rotor. Seiko is a powerhouse of movement manufacturer. The 4R series essentially is Seiko's branded equivalent of the NH series they produce and sell to many industry brands, so expect a reliable performer here. As a side note, this new movement development could suggest that it will be rolled out to the NH series meaning the rest of the watch industry (especially microbrands) could be looking at a new entry-level option for a mechanical GMT. Now that could be huge.

Seiko 5 Sports Black grape SSK001K1 on wrist
Seiko 5 Sports 'Black Grape' SSK001K1

It's worth mentioning that this movement isn't what many refer to as a 'true' travellers GMT as the hour hand cannot be independently jumped forwards or backwards but rather a ‘caller’ GMT. Regardless, considering its price and the abundance of positives, I wouldn't hold this against the SKX GMT. 

GOODBYE DAY, HELLO CYCLOPS

Okay, this will be a positive for some, and for others, it's a shame, but it is refreshing to see the SKX platform minus the day window. It has been a mainstay of the SKX since day 1, and although its inclusion is not as jarring as other watches due to its double-stacked three o'clock position emulating the nine o'clock marker both in size and colour, it is very clean just having the date. This date-only preference has also allowed Seiko to make way for a cyclop, a move which bumps up the legibility even further and one which marks the first of many nods to a particular Hans Wilsdorf coronet-wearing creation. 

Seiko 5 Sports 'Black Grape' SSK001K1 close up

IT CAN BE ALL THINGS, TO ALL PEOPLE

Seiko continues to cast a wide net of appeal regarding variations with the three models at launch. For the conservative watch collector looking for a classic, easy-wearing GMT, which will look perfect in smart or casual situations, the matte black dial with its black and grey GMT bezel (reference SSK001) will be the pick of the bunch. The most outlandish this reference gets is its red GMT hand which is to say it's pretty reserved and conventional. The blue reference SSK003, on the other hand, relies on the model's sporty pedigree due to the eye-catching execution of its sunburst blue dial. The bezel has been changed to accommodate this new colour with a black and blue design, giving off an elevated and dynamic appearance that is not a million miles away from the 126710BLNR from Rolex. And then we come to the classic cult colour of Seiko, orange and the SSK005. Chances are if you're eyeing up this option, it's probably not going to be the only watch in your collection as its sunburst orange dial, gold-coloured hour and minute hands, and inverse contrast palette is statement-making at its finest. Some of the coolest collectable Seiko models make the most of vibrant orange, so this feels like the brand tipping their hat to their biggest of fans. 

Variety is the spice of life, and in just three concise references, Seiko has effectively catered to the broadest of style preferences; there really is something for all GMT folk.

Seiko 5 Sports SSK005K1
Seiko 5 Sports SSK005K1

THE WHOLE SEIKO PACKAGE

Few watch manufacturers offer value for money like Seiko (perhaps NOMOS and Grand Seiko, but that's a conversation for another day), and their box-ticking credentials are on full show with this GMT. Although not precisely the same proportions as the original SKX, this GMT is within the realm of 'barely noticeable' proportional tweaks with a breadth of 42.5mm and a thickness only measuring 0.1mm taller at 13.6mm. Very slight sizing changes aside, we're dealing with a robust sports watch here, with a rugged build quality once more unrivalled at this price point. The watch does take a 100m hit on the water-resistance front from 200m achieved by the original SKX down to 100m — and the crown isn't a screw-down — but don't forget this is a modern watch featuring the latest gaskets and seals, so for most of us, this is more than capable.

SSK001K1 and SSK003K1 with their jubilee bracelets

A vital attribute of the OG SKX was its jubilee-style bracelet. Sure, it wasn't the greatest quality — it rattled, sat loosely on the wrist, and generally was a stark contrast to the strength of the watch — but its lightweight construction had character. Unfortunately, in 2019 it didn't return on the new 5 Sports series, but today it does, and boy does it feel good to be back. It also is a pretty sizable piece of the Rolex-inspired puzzle that those looking to emulate the appeal of a GMT Master II will be highly grateful for.

On a more direct note, the 5KX GMT follows a tried and tested design formula for a GMT travel watch and executes it fantastically. What you see is what you get, and that's a huge positive.

wrist shot of the Blueberry

ON YOUR MARKS, GET SET, MOD!

A crucial attribute of the original Seiko SKX's success was its ability to be modified practically to any concoction of new designs. It's a key trait of many fan favourite Seiko divers (see @thewatchdude2's SKX007 mod below), as the brand always seems to deliver excellent fundamentals which become a canvas for expressing individuality. That was most certainly the case with the OG SKX, but man, is this new 5KX GMT begging to be modded. Thanks to its reliable proprietary GMT movement, this piece has unlocked plenty of new possibilities for the SKX community to add their touch to a travel sports watch. Of course, changing the strap on a watch is the most entry form of modding, and I imagine the watch will look brilliant on all manner of straps—from high-quality leather straps for a more business casual look to even sportier options like a rugged NATO. I'm keen to see it on a top-notch integrated rubber strap that perfectly matches the curve of the case. Bezel changes similarly have the potential to transform the watch totally. All steel, ceramic, fulled lumed, a vintage faded look, Coke or Pepsi coloured, the new green and black as seen on the new Rolex GMT Master II 126720VTNR, root beer, the list goes on. The scope of what Seiko has introduced here won't be fully appreciated immediately. Still, considering I haven't even touched on the fact that dials and hands can be changed, cases can be re-finished, and even the movement could be modified to drop the date and remove the shadow click suggests that once this 5KX GMT gets into the hands of the modding community, the fan base around this piece will fly (pun most certainly intended).

If history is anything to go by, these three options are only the tip of the iceberg of what Seiko has planned for these, so I'm confident we can expect more variations soon. As someone who in the past 12 months has found being able to track various timezones super valuable, I'll be watching Seiko closely, with my wallet well within arms distance and James Porter & Son on speed dial. 

The Specifications

References: SSK001K1 (Black Grape), SSK003K1 (Blueberry), SSK005K1 (Orange).

Case: Stainless steel.

Glass: Hardlex.

Diameter: 42.5mm.

Thickness: 13.56mm.

Lug-to-lug: 46mm.

Water Resistance: 100 meters.

Dial: Blue, black & orange.

Hands: Hours, minutes, seconds & GMT.

Strap: Stainless steel "jubilee' bracelet.

The Movement

Calibre: 4R34.

Power Reserve: 41 hours.

Pricing & Availability

Price: £400.00

Availability: Available now.

Learn more about Seiko here.