Independence in watchmaking has been at the peak of interest from all corners of the industry in recent decades. In a world where large conglomerates dominate the business world, companies who operate independently tend to offer a more straightforward, less cluttered, and often less corporate products. A sense of creative freedom and an ability to do things the right way for the right reasons plays into the hands of independently owned and run watchmakers. Oris is one such example who cannot and have not put a foot wrong in recent years. Releases that directly consider what their fan base asks for, offered at competitive prices, for fantastic value for money, allow Oris to stand out in a sea of competition.

Watches that aren't afraid to do something different whilst still being directed by their heritage have come to fruition. Oris wears their heart on their sleeve - what you see is what you get. An advantageous strength in a world that seems now more than ever to be seeking authenticity. Fortunately, dig a little deeper and what you find is even more compelling.

 

Who are ORIS?

Founded in the Swiss town of Hölstein by Paul Cattin and Georges Christian, Oris have been producing watches since 1904. The firm had 300 employees and even built accommodation to entice more watchmakers just seven years into its operation. A few years later, Jacques-David LeCoultre (one half of Jaeger LeCoultre) became the director of Oris, around the same time as investing in Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin. Oris was clearly in both excellent hands and terrific company.

Oris founders Paul Cattin and Georges christian

Oris founders Paul Cattin and Georges Christian

Over the next 30 years, the brand went on to develop its own escapement, launched a model known as the Big Crown Pointer Date in 1938 (more on that in a moment), and in the early 1950s, it released its first watch using an automatic movement with a power reserve indicator. At one point, Oris was one of the biggest watchmakers in the world, producing over 1 million watches and clocks a year. However, with the quartz crisis just around the corner, the tides were about to change. In the 1970s, Oris agreed to become a part of the ASUAG (also known as Swatch Group today) which, combined with the advent of the much more reliable, less expensive, and more trendy battery-powered watches, resulted in a troublesome decade.

Oris factory in Holstein in the year 1929

Oris Headquarters located in Holstein, Switzerland, 1929.

Fortunately, in the 1980s, the watchmaker returns to independence and re-aligns its attention to mechanical watchmaking. What follows are decades of innovation, genius partnerships, authentic callbacks to the brand's rich history and, in turn, a loyal fan base.

 

Five must-know Oris models

After that brief summary of the Oris history, it's apparent that this is not only a watchmaker with success deeply rooted in its DNA but also one with compassion and a supportive conscience. From building accommodation for its employees to supporting fantastic charities and foundations, Oris stands out through action. But, of course, this is arguably all a little in vain if their watches don't impress and deliver desirability. The Hölstein based watch brand faces stiff opposition at its popular price points. Similar legacy brands with a comparable heritage and new, up and coming watch brands who have sprung into the market offering something new is constant pressure. But Oris is able to keep their competitors at bay by continuing to punch above their weight with a robust collection of pieces that deserve the attention and praise they receive.

 

The Oris Big Crown

Created during the 1930s, the Big Crown was conceived as a watch for pilots as its large crown was ideal for adjusting while wearing leather gloves. One of the Big Crown's most prevalent and long-standing configurations includes a coin-edge / almost fluted bezel design, large cathedral hands flooded with lume, a cresent-moon tipped pointer date hand, and a centralised seconds hand. This watch and design have been a mainstay in the range for many years now. Special editions regularly include bronze models, brightly coloured dials, various strap pairings, and two-tone examples. Typically powered by an Oris calibre deriving from a Sellita base, this specific configuration of the Big Crown is undoubtedly one of the models to go for if representing the brand's heritage is essential to you. However, like all dynamic companies, Oris is firmly aware that relying on this traditional DNA can have a shelf life. And so, in 2021, Oris debuted a new era for their longest-serving model: The Oris Big Crown Pointer Date Calibre 403.

Oris big crown from 1981 to 1990

1990's Big Crown Pointer Date

This sleek, re-vitalised, and updated new design breaths a fresh new supply of air into a significant and traditional model. The most critical update can be found at the heart of this watch and the movement powering this piece: the in-house Calibre 403. We will discuss this technology in a little more detail later, but for now, know mechanically this Big Crown Pointer Date means business.

Yes, it has dropped historically focused design elements that many recognise the model for but have a look back at the earliest Big Crown models, and you'll notice this new piece shares a lot in common. A subsidiary seconds at six o'clock, non-cathedral style hands, a more simplified numeral font, and, importantly, a matching smooth bezel design.

 

Diver Sixty-Five

In 1965 Oris released their contribution to the diving watch world with 100m of water resistance, a uni-directional rotating bezel, a contrast friendly set of hands and dial filled with luminescence, and an abundant amount of character. Fifty years after the model was released, Oris re-issued the model with near exact precision and accuracy to the original design in 2015. Small nuances did exist, but for the most part, this re-issue was highly accurate to its 1960s ancestor. Since then, the Sixty-Five has become a hit, with many references coming to fruition. In addition, it adopted a slightly more versatile dial configuration with various examples of date and no date pieces.

Available starting from £1,400 with an Oris calibre / Sellita base movement beating away inside, it's no wonder the Sixty-Five often is mentioned on lists of the 'best watches under £2,000' and the like. To give a real-world example of just how adaptable the Sixty-Five DNA truly is, take a look at the 2021 release known as the 'Cotton Candy'. Bronze 38mm cases, pastel pink, blue, and green dials fitted to bronze oyster style bracelets. Packed with joy, personality and charisma, the "Cotton Candy" references are the epitome of Oris in the 21st century.

Oris divers sixty five cotton candy series

Oris Divers Sixty-Five 'Cotton Candy'

 

The Oris Aquis

Although the name was first seen in 2011, the Aquis has models from 1998 onwards to thank. This deep-diving, highly practical sports watch delivers performance and styling with a clear focus on the 21st century. The Aquis is a range that rejects vintage touches and heritage-inspired features in favour of serious performance, matched with thoroughly contemporary aesthetics. Take its size, for example. Although sub 40mm models do exist, most models are 40mm plus, in some cases up to 50mm - serious heft. Something worth pulling back to are those sub-40mm models. Typically these references would be referred to as 'women's' models and may feature exclusively diamonds, mother of pearl dials, and an overload of pink. Oris, on the other hand, approaches this subject differently. They simply keep the design exactly the same and scale down the 41.5mm Aquis into the 36.5mm and 39.5mm case. A lot of brands could learn a thing or two here.

The Aquis really does have it all. Clean and straightforward divers in various sizes using sunburst blue, black, and green dial to unique limited editions and even models with recycled ocean plastic as its dial (Aquis Date Upcycle). The Aquis is again powered by reliable Sellita based Oris movements, delivering the perfect intersection of quality, performance and value for money. Of course, examples can be found using the Oris developed Calibre 400 that carry a higher price point and all of the movement's benefits - but once again, more on that in a moment. And then things get even wilder when the recently launched Sun Wukong Artist Edition comes into play. This £21,000 limited edition of 72 pieces steel diver features a hand-painted cloisonné enamel dial depicting the Dragon King's underwater palace, where Sun Wukong (also referred to as The Monkey King) finds a weapon in the seminal 1961 Chinese animated film The Monkey King: Uproar in Heaven. A true piece of art and a must-see. Creativity knows no bounds with the Aquis.

 

The Oris ProPilot

Despite their long history filled with milestones and success, Oris does what many brands fail to do effectively: look forward. In 2014, Oris released their Big Crown ProPilot Altimeter. Although the model had some familiar elements, such as the coin edge bezel, the overriding design is one of modernity. The ProPilot range now includes many references from simple time and date models to GMTs, world timers, and even references with ten days of autonomy. Visually these pilot watches are 41mm and larger with contrast friendly dial configurations, brushed cases, and versatile colour schemes. The bezel on the ProPilot isn't just a pretty face, as in some pieces, it offers functionality, despite its markerless design.

Take the ProPilot Worldtimer, where the bezel can be rotated left and right to adjust the local hour time and the date forwards or backwards. You can add a ProPilot to your collection starting at just £1,250 for a clean and simple time and date reference, powered by a Sellita based Oris calibre. However, increase your budget to a maximum of £4,250, and you can get some fantastic watches. You can bag yourself a 10-day power reserve GMT piece with a date and the in house developed Oris 114 movement on the top end. Most of the other models in the ProPilot family are available well under £4,000, which although that isn't an amount of money to be flippant about, the reality is if the dial was signed with a different watchmaker, expect the price point to be close to double that of Oris.

If you're after a ProPilot that makes a statement, the ProPilot X is going to be your cup of tea. This skeletonised bold pilot watch takes the ten-day power reserve Calibre 115 and brings all its features on show. Everything is skeletonised here, even the barrel housing the mainspring, so as you wind the watch, you can see it getting tighter and tighter. This piece has a powerful identity with a case and bracelet design to match the craziness of the dial. Oh, and did we mention this titanium watch is not a limited edition and available starting from £5,600?

 

Rectangular

One of the classiest, most timeless, and quintessential dress watch traits is a rectangular case. Of course, references such as the Patek Philippe 96 defined the Calatrava style, but it's impossible to ignore iconic rectangular dress watches such as the Cartier Tank and the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso. In late 2021, Oris released four new rectangular models that blended art deco design elements with daily usability. From its stepped case design, railroad heavy dial, sword hands, three, nine, and twelve, as well as a tiny date window at six, these watches are just gorgeous. Rectangular watch measurements are slightly different from round cased pieces, and the Rectangular range from Oris measures 25.5mm x 38mm. I view this as a well-proportioned case for many small to medium-sized wrists as it maintains a touch of the understated.

What sets this piece apart from other rectangular watches is its choice of dial colours, with blue and red standing out the most. However, regardless of the strong coloured dials, the Rectangular range delivers on the functionality front. The Oris 561 automatic movement powers the piece featuring a date complication, and the presence of lume aids usability further. So regardless of these watch's dressy DNA, they make for brilliant daily wear pieces if you find yourself sitting behind a desk or wearing formal attire on the regular. But the best part of these watches has to be their price. Costing £1,450, the Oris Rectangular is, yet again, another excellent value proposition.

 

The future of Oris - Caliber 400

Throughout this article, I've teased an exciting development for the Hölstein based watchmaker known as the Calibre 400. Announced in 2020, this in house movement from Oris again demonstrates their understanding and needs of Oris clients. Most people who own an Oris piece tend to have more than one watch in the collection. This means that a rotating watch collection each week isn't out of the ordinary, so, when developing an in house movement, the need for a high power reserve was identified. The result? Five days of autonomy thanks to two barrels. Next up, magnets. Whether we're aware of it or not, magnets are all around us in this technologically focused world. Now, magnets and mechanical movements have never really been the best of friends, which is why Oris increased the anti-magnetic properties of the Calibre 400 movement, so it deviates by less than 10 seconds a day after exposure to 2,250 gausses. As this is a modern movement, Oris backs it with a 10-year warranty and a recommended 10-year service window - that's pretty impressive. So when discussing the future of Oris, in house movements and the Calibre 400 seem to be the answer. Something which complements that are their ties to charities and limited edition pieces. With releases created in collaboration with the likes of Hodinkee, Fratello Watches, Mr Porter, the Carl Brashear Foundation, the Roberto Clemente Foundation, Reef Restoration Foundation, Pacific Garbage Screening, and many more, Oris is on a path of producing beautiful watches capable of telling genuine stories worth hearing.

Their watches are designed with the customer in mind without feeling overly commercial. They don't feel like a board of directors have dictated how they should look, or every attempt has been made to squeeze every last Swiss Franc out of their production costs at the sacrifice of quality. For many years now, Oris has been producing hit after hit. In my mind, they're one of only a few watchmakers who truly delivers in quality, branding and storytelling. These crucial elements coming together result in one of the leading Swiss brands today.