New Watches from Geneva Watch Days 2024 Coming To James Porter & Son

It’s the end of September, everyone has returned from their holidays and despite my best efforts, the summer is ending. This can only mean one thing – Geneva Watch Days is back. This year marked the fourth edition of the summer watch show that saw over 50 brands take over Geneva to reveal new additions to their collections. Surprisingly, this was my first time attending the show, after foolishly not going last year and only hearing positive comments about it ever since. The show is a little more unique than Watches & Wonders, as it takes place entirely in the city of Geneva, mostly in hotel suites, with certain brands still adopting the decentralised approach that made the show possible in 2020.

Last year's edition pulled in 8,000 visitors, 39 brands and 600 media representatives, but 2024 bettered those figures across the board with 13,700 visitors, 52 brands and 700 media members. The show is undoubtedly on the rise, and after spending four days touring the city and seeing all the latest and greatest, I’ve got hands-on images and some first impressions for you; let’s jump into it.

Czapek

Let’s start with one of my favourite independent watchmakers, Czapek, a brand that remains one of the smartest buys on the market. This Genevan brand comes off the back of a fantastic Watches & Wonders, which saw the introduction of a new collection called the Promenade. In my eyes, this smaller, dressier, and universal piece was a genius step in the right direction for the brand as Czapek demonstrated they respond to the market while remaining true to themselves.

Geneva Watch Days saw a new addition to the ever-popular Antarctique collection, the Aventurine. As its name suggests, the brand’s integrated bracelet sports watch is now available with an aventurine dial and although this isn’t the first time the watchmaker has used this mesmerising material, in 2024, it feels very appropriate. More and more collectors are becoming interested in more unique dials because of their unisex appeal and unmistakable visual elegance, and within the Antarctique, an aventurine makes total sense. This new model is available in a smaller 38.5mm case diameter as well as a 40mm with no visual difference between the sizes to denote a more male or feminine leaning option for 26,000 CHF in both sizes. The larger size is limited to 99 pieces, whereas the smaller is to 77; but two more options are available that are even more limited and extra special.

Limited to 8 pieces for the 40.5mm edition and 18 for the 38.5mm, the new ‘Flying Diamond’ editions of the Antarctique Aventurine feature perfectly cut Antarctic-cut diamonds for the markers which appear to sit further into the dial rather than on top. If you want to opt for the diamond edition of the Antarctique Aventurine they will set you back 38,000 CHF for the 38.5mm and 42,800 CHF for the 40.5mm. 

Doxa

From diamond-set aventurine dials to a brand with one of the most loyal fan bases, Doxa had a double whammy of fantastic releases this year: one for hardcore fans and one seemingly aimed at bringing in a new audience.

Let’s begin with the former, as Doxa introduces the SUB 300T Aristera. Limited to just 300 pieces worldwide, the Aristera is a conventional Professional dial 300T for the most part. However, keen partakers in ‘spot the difference’ will note how the crown is now on the left side of the watch case. That’s right, for the first time in their history, Doxa has made a left-handed automatic dive watch. This is a fact I still find pretty remarkable that considering how noteworthy Doxa’s involvement in the diving watch over history has been. Nevertheless, a LHD SUB 300 is here, and at 42.5mm, along with all of the hallmarks of a 300, including the cushion case, small dial aperture and contrasted dial, die-hard fans will love this piece.

For the second act in Doxa’s GWD, the brand revisited a novelty from Watches & Wonders. In April, among the smaller-sized SUB 200T, Doxa debuted a brand new colour called Sea Emerald Green. Well just a few months later we have this deep green throughout five major SUB collections including the 200, 300T, 300, 600T, 300 Carbon. Perhaps the most striking of options here is the latter, as the forged carbon contrasted by a sunburst green dial is beautifully juxtaposed and would be my choice. The beauty of this rollout and Doxa is that there’s so much variation you’re bound to find what works for you.

Frederique Constant

Always a favourite brand to spend time with at watch shows, Frederique Constant showed zero signs of slowing down following their blockbuster Watches & Wonders, with future additions to their range leading Manufacture collection.

Watches and Wonders saw serious updates to the Classic Date and Classic Moonphase Date models, with new 40mm cases, a new 72 hour strong FC 716 calibre and new dial options. This summer, Frederique Constant announced a new dial option for the Classic Moonphase Date, a stone dial. The stone is question is malachite, a green-coloured stone which is soft and thus incredibly difficult to work with. It carries unique and varying lines throughout its surface that vary from vibrant pastel greens to darker even hues touching black. To match the sophistication of the dial is an 18k white gold expression of the newly updated case. This will certainly be a rare and seldom-seen watch, with only 36 ever being produced; a number shared with Frederique Constant’s next novelty. 

Also rendered in 18k white gold, we return once again to an endlessly eye-catching dial in the form of a new aventurine dial within the Manufacture line but this time for the Tourbillon. This new reference really is quite the stunner, as the 39mm (!) piece with its deep, mesmerising dial combined with the tourbillon complication, let alone its dial furniture makes it unbelievably eye-catching.

Frederique Constant are having an incredible year so far, and based on what is coming to the brand lineup soon, the year will end on a serious high note.

The new Classic Moonphase Date with malachite dial costs £25,995, while the Classic Tourbillon Manufacture with the aventurine dial comes in at £36,395.

Maurice Lacroix

One brand that has been in a prime position to capitalise on the rapid appreciation for the integrated sports watch over the past 5-10 years has been Maurice Lacroix. The Aikon, has enjoyed a well-thought-out and paced expansion over recent years, from the sporty, colourful #Tide to skeletonised editions. This Geneva Watch Days, Maurice Lacroix expanded on their lineup with new titanium editions of the Aikon. Available in the 42mm sized edition, the Aikon time and date is now available with a striking purple dial as well as a lovely subdued, metal matching grey. 

In a similar vein, the Aikon Chronograph has also received the titanium treatment, along with the purple dial, and a bold golden-coloured dial edition. What’s additionally attractive here is how the purple dial carries grey sub-registers, while the sunburst golden dial has lovely contrasting sub-registers and dial accents in black. At 44mm and 15mm thick its fair to say these won’t be for every wrist out there, but both collections enter the standard collection which says a lot about the wider appeal of titanium as a material and colourful dials in today’s market.

Similar to Frederique Constant, Maurice Lacroix has an incredible new watch coming soon that, for what it's offering, is simply one of the best on the market. You’ll hear about it right here all too soon.

Oris

A long-term favourite of yours, mine, and just about everyone, is Oris, and this summer they focused on two pillars of their brand: philanthropy and commericality.

First up is a new Divers Sixy-Five limited edition known as the LFP. Now, on the surface, this is a steel diver with a matching relief steel bezel, blue gloss dial, and a brilliant 38mm wrist presence; but there’s more to it. You’ll notice that the Oris logo has a handwritten style script, and the ‘water resistant’ typography carries a rainbow colour palette. This is all to do with the ‘LFP’ angle of this piece, France’s Ligue de Football Professionne. This watch is created to support the LFP’s charity football match ‘Les Défenseurs de l’Enfance’, which allows disadvantaged children to play football and meet their footballing heroes while raising money. The cause is noble, and the watch itself is lovely. Aside from its poignance, this is a great-looking piece from Oris. The playful nature of its dial signature feels right at home, and with 1,000 pieces being produced, it's the right amount to supply their sizeable audience without diluting the special element the watch stands for.

Next, Oris doubled down on a model many will see as their flagship collection, the Aquis. Following their focus on refining the Aquis at Watches & Wonders, Oris has now rolled out these changes to the Aquis Chronograph with a newly tweaked 43.5mm edition. With its aqua blue sunburst dial, matching blue ceramic bezel, tri-compax configuration and date placed at six, the Aquis Chronograph remains a rock-solid diving chronograph option. In fact, this concept was one I found myself struck by when visiting Oris, as despite new brands coming along and receiving the lion’s share of the limelight, established names such as Oris still continue to provide fantastic options. 

Studio Underdog

Finally, we have Studio Underd0g who took a huge leap forward at Geneva Watch Days, announcing a collaboration with H Moser & Cie.

The release between these brands is actually two watches, with each carrying the DNA of their respective brands while sharing the same fruity influence, a passion fruit. H Moser’s piece is a yellow and purple take on their Endevaour Perpetual Calendar, while Studio Underd0g debuted a new edition of their chronograph, also with the same colour palette. Now powered by a monopusher Sellita SW510 and called the 03Series, it looks like Studio Underd0g continues to level up its watchmaking chops with this release. The kicker here is that the Moser and Underd0g are only sold as a set, meaning to get your hands on the 03Series you’ll have to spend in the region of £50,000. This approach did cause some comments and feedback online, but from my perspective, this isn’t anything new, especially for a launch later in the year.

It seems that many people have forgotten that not long ago, pre-COVID at least, all the watch brands would launch their major releases in Q1 and focus the rest of the year on delivering those pieces while occasionally announcing novelties for certain markets or in collaboration with retailers. This release simply feels like an example of that. Let's not gloss over how significant it is that Studio Underd0g, a watch brand that’s just four years old, started on Kickstarter, is now working with one of the leading and most respected independent watchmakers.

This is a huge win for British watchmaking, the traditional microbrand, and the future of Studio Underd0g. Is this a sign of things to come for the Underd0g? We’ll have to wait and see.