Introducing The DOXA SUB 250T GMT

DOXA, the champion of the colour-embracing functional tool watch, has just announced the latest arrival within the SUB lineup, and this one will be a crowd-pleaser.

Marking a return of the GMT complication and the SUB 250 name, the new DOXA 250T GMT scales down the SUB 300 case and delivers optimal function whether submerged or in flight. Adding 1mm to the previously scaled-down SUB 200T, the new 250 sits at 40mm and is offered in all eight signature DOXA colours (Professional, Sharkhunter, Searambler, Divingstar, Caribbean, Aquamarine, Whitepearl, and Sea Emerald). As they did last year, DOXA has also used this new series to debut a new dial variation: a smoky grey gradient dial appropriately named 'Sharkhunter Vintage'.

DOXA aficionados will recognise the execution of this 250T as the watch sees a transformation of the SUB 750T GMT from 2006 with quintessential hallmarks of the coverted brand design codes from the mid-century style blocky hour markers, minute prioritising hands, no-decompression bezel, and cushion case. These elements have been paired with a fourth hand for the second timezone and a 24-hour rehaut. The GMT hand is skeletonised to further uphold the classic DOXA appearance, ensuring the right balance between function and clarity is maintained.

Within the 250m water-resistant case is an automatic calibre (the exact movement hasn't been confirmed), which provides 50 hours of autonomy, vibrating at 28,800 vph. The watch comes available on either a stainless steel 'beads of rice' bracelet or a colour-matched FKM rubber strap, with prices starting at £2,350.

Initial thoughts

DOXA is one of the best at giving the people what they want, and this 250T is another excellent example of precisely that. This piece will tick many boxes for people with universal proportions and additional functions, only strengthening the model. For many years now brands have found ways to combine functions within sports watches, and while we have seen a few diving tourbillons, most of the time the diver teams up with those functions that can be benefitted from every day. Typically, it's the chronograph, but whenever a new diving GMT arrives, I can't help but feel how well-coupled the diver and GMT are. As travel watches for carefree summer holidays go, the 250T is one hell of an introduction by DOXA as it manages to add more function without distraction from the watch's core principles.

Case proportions have become more and more of a hot topic as the years go on, with many people holding strong views across the board. However, at 40mm, I can't help but think DOXA nailed it here. You see, not only is 40mm a sports watch sweet spot, but it's also a fantastic middle ground for the DOXA collection today. With this SUB 250T, DOXA now has four sizes of their classic cushion case: 39mm, 40mm, 42.5mm, and 45mm. This, combined with the fact that the case form with the smaller dial aperture gives the impression of even better proportions on the wrist, both account for a piece which sits at a great size for serving the traditionalistic DOXA customer and the new age. The piece is also priced very competitively which, in a world where brands are increasingly raising their prices regularly, this is as refreshing as the bright and expressive colours of the Aquamarine and Divingstar.

Shop the new DOXA SUB 250T collection here.