You may have seen them on the big screen playing leading roles in the likes of Interstellar, Tenet, Men in Black, and The Martian. Or perhaps when loading up the latest Far Cry® 6 video game and looking down at your character's wrist, Hamilton has cleverly positioned itself into pop culture in recent years. In fact, looking back throughout their history, Hamilton is no stranger to this, with Elvis to James Bond and everything in between seen donning a Hamilton. With over 100 years to its name, the brand also has played important roles in major world events. Their diverse collections demonstrate an understanding of present-day desires, something which is yet another recurring theme. However, looking back at their history, rather than going directly to Switzerland, an unusual yet hugely important origin begins in the United States.

 

Who are Hamilton?

With roots in Lancaster, Pennsylvania, Hamilton was founded in 1892. Their earliest notable impact was felt during 1912, when they played a pivotal role in how American railroads adhered to accurate timekeeping. This, in turn, reduced the number of railroad accidents, a promising start. The American-born watchmaker then contributed to both the First and Second World Wars. To maintain high production levels, Hamilton stopped creating civilian watches, with all resources going into military pieces. Over one million Hamilton watches were produced during the 1940s as the brand supported the US Armed Forces.

Hamilton Watch Company headquarters in Lancaster Pennsylvania

Hamilton Watch Company located in Lancaster, Pennsylvania, USA.

Hamilton also made pilots watches, creating an official watch for the four major American commercial airlines and Admiral Richard E. Byrd's pioneering first exploration of Antarctica in the 1930s. This connection to the military continued during the following decades, where Hamilton provided military watches following Britain's W10 military watch specifics to both the Royal Air Force and Army during the 1970s. Rugged terrains, demanding environments, and hostile situations, Hamilton watches have gone throughout and survived them all throughout history.

Air Force pilots receiving Hamilton watches on 15th of may 1918

Pilots receiving Hamilton watches - 15th of May, 1918.

Back in the civilian world, Hamilton was making a name for itself, being spotted on the wrists of some of the highest profiles, from the US president Senator Lyndon B. Johnson, to Elvis Presley. Hamilton also played a role in developing the Caliber 11 and the race for the first automatic chronograph movement. Now owned by Swatch Group and based in Biel, Switzerland, Hamilton's creations look to respect their lineage and stay true to the principles outlined by its founding references.

 

Must know series from the current Hamilton range

Flying through its history, it's evident that Hamilton has a lot to celebrate, and its modern-day lineup embodies its importance to many facets of horology. With a diverse and varying model range of Swiss-made watches, Hamilton has a lot to offer, especially at their competitive price point, and it all starts with their military-inspired pieces.

 

The Khaki Field

Quite possibly their most well-loved range amongst watch collectors, the Khaki Field range is rich with rugged capability and reliability thanks to its militaristic background. Based on field watches used by the army, these pieces are practical and accurate models for the boots on the ground soldiers. Of course, nowadays, this range uses that lineage to produce a line of watches that capture the essence and principles of historical models making the most of modern tech. Heritage runs deep in this range, and in many models, it is the singular aspect that influences the aesthetics, but it's not exclusive. Sure, for those after a re-issue, you'll find a healthy dose of vintage, but examples such as the Khaki Field Auto offer a modern take on the range with sunburst dials and contemporary numerals.

Arguably the most popular example in this range, though, is the Khaki Field Mechanical 38mm. This model burst into the scene in 2018 and quickly became a fan favourite with basically everyone. It introduced an honest, throwback design that took inspiration from 60s military watches. It's also powered by the H-50 manual wind movement capable of 80 hours of autonomy, a seriously impressive offering. With its satin blasted finish, accurate nostalgia-heavy dial, and a remarkable ability to suit many watch straps, it's no wonder collectors have gone crazy for this piece. And the best part? The watch starts are £395 on the fabric NATO. Now available in a PVD black finish, bronze case, and even a 42mm size, the Khaki Field Mechanical is one of the most compelling field watches on the market. Its approachable price point is truly the icing on the cake.

Hamilton khaki field mechanical 38mm watch

Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical. Image courtesy of @TheWatchDude2.

 

American Classic Range

While the Khaki range focuses on Hamilton's tool watch side, the American Classic range is all about the brand's activity for the civilian market. As the name suggests, this range looks to celebrate the brand's American heritage through beautifully imagined and versatile pieces. From chronographs, shaped watches, dress watches, and even digital pieces, the American Classic range is ideal for those looking to dip their toe into the world of Hamilton with universal everyday charm.  

One model which celebrates an important milestone for the brand is the Intra-matic Auto Chrono. First announced in 2018, this bi-compax modern chronograph is enhanced by a design and finish that is rooted in the late 1960s. This makes a lot of sense because, as we alluded to earlier, Hamilton was a part of the race in '69 to create an automatic chronograph. Along with Heuer, Breitling, Dubois-Dépraz and Buren (who Hamilton acquired), Hamilton had further established itself within the Swiss watchmaking world. This Intra-matic Auto Chrono is a beautifully stylish way to respect their automatic chronograph achievements. With its gorgeous panda dial featuring large sub-registers complete with concentric circles, raised baton markers, a date window neatly placed at six o'clock, and its black tachymeter scale aiding both practicality and visual strength, this is an undeniably attractive chronograph. And coming in at 40mm wide, with an ETA/Valjoux 7753 based chronograph movement, it also scores major points on the wearability front. Chronographs are an important aspect of Hamilton's history, and the Intra-matic Auto Chrono is a traditionally executed way to wear a slice of that pedigree. 

Hamilton Auto-Chrono Panda Dial

 

Khaki Navy

Aqua themed watches have enjoyed immense popularity pretty much since they were introduced to the industry on a large scale in the 1950s. The Khaki Navy range by Hamilton encapsulates not just the likes of diving watches but also the often forgotten water-based timekeepers such as marine chronometers. However, this range isn't stuck in the past for the most part. It's a forward-thinking selection of watches that confidently play with colour, watch straps, materials, movements, and most certainly sizes. Do you want a 37mm SCUBA diving watch? Sure, thats possible. How about a 46mm titanium beast? Yup, that's here as well, all in the Khaki Navy series. In fact, speaking of 46mm…  

Hamilton marine chronometer model 21 from 1941

Hamilton marine chronometer from 1941.

Sure, pieces like SCUBA are popular for Hamilton, but the BeLOWZERO Auto Titanium is the man of the moment. Featuring in the 2020 blockbuster hit TENET, this watch is mean, bold, aggressive, and undeniably unique. Produced in titanium with a black PVD coating, this piece has the performance to back its rugged design with no less than 100 bar (1,000 m) of water resistance. This bad boy is a serious piece of kit and effectively shows the range of Hamilton's watchmaking abilities. With its large numerals and blacked out hands, the watch doesn't hold back on the mean personality. However, legibility is surprisingly strong thanks to the lume used in its broad arrow hands rocking a slightly light grey colour. 

Hamilton Scuba BeLOWZERO diving watch

 

Khaki Aviation

We've covered land and sea, so now it's time for air and the Khaki Aviation. As you might have worked out already, this range houses everything to do with air travel. Be it accurate re-issues or modern GMT travel watches, this is the range to look at if jet setting is a regular occurrence in your life, be it physically or vicariously. The Khaki Aviation range is remarkably extensive as the watchmaker seems to cater to the supersized air travel market. There is almost certainly something here for everyone, from ultra legible time only pieces to complicated chronographs, dual timezone trackers, and even day-dates.

Following a similar trajectory of success to the Khaki Mechanical Field is the Pilot Pioneer by Hamilton. This sub-section of the Aviation range features a few key models, including an affordable quartz chronograph measuring 41mm. There is also an incredibly characterful Mechanical time-only piece, which is a re-production of the military watches produced for the British Royal Air Force (I'm biased, I have and love one of these), and the latest addition to the Pilot Pioneer family.

Best characterised by its large rotating countdown bezel, grain textured dial, simplistic Arabic numerals, and most notably, its set of large cathedral style hands, this Pilot Pioneer delivers charm by the boatload. Inspired by a pocket watch favoured by the US during WWII known as the Model 23, this Pilot Pioneer is a wonderful tribute to the brand's military history and oozes charisma. Hamilton is fantastic at offering various sizes, and although this piece was only announced towards the end of 2021, there is a 38mm in steel and a 43mm with sub-seconds in both steel or bronze. Starting from £855 and once more with 80 hours of autonomy, this is a hard piece is not love.

Hamilton Khaki Pilot Pioneer Automatic 38mm

Hamilton Khaki Pilot Pioneer Automatic

 

 Jazzmaster

Let's take a break from Hamilton's tool watch focused world and change the pace a little. If elegance, refinement, traditional timekeeping, and versatility excites, then the Jazzmaster range will be the one for you. With a preference for the understated, the Jazzmaster is just as sophisticated as its name suggests. Forget rotating diving bezels and yellowed lume, this range is all about sunburst dials, elegant handsets, traditional dial furniture, and even skeletonised dials. This shows a totally different side to the ones we have explored previously in the best possible way.

While not a complete skeleton dial, the Open Heart Auto is arguably the model which best embodies the Jazzmaster's avant-garde design blended with traditionality. Available with sunbursts and even a mother of pearl dial, this Jazzmaster goes a step further than most open-heart dials by offering around a ⅓ of the dial-up as a view straight to the movement powering the watch, balance and all. Dauphine styled hands, quarter Arabic numerals, a 42mm case size, and a selection of strap options, the Open Heart Auto is unlike any other Hamilton. If we take a moment to jump back to some of the first pieces we looked at today, one can't help but be impressed by the range and depth of Hamilton's capabilities.

Hamilton Jazzmaster open-heart automatic with blue dial on table with revolution magazine and wm brown magazine, beside is a field notes book and pen and film camera

 

Ventura

There are shaped watches, and then there are shaped watches. Typically rectangular pieces come to mind, even square ones, oval, and tonneau - but the Ventura is totally different. Based on a design from Hamilton first seen in 1957, the Ventura is the model Elvis Presley catapulted into fame during the 1961 musical comedy Blue Hawaii. This daring piece of watch design has its roots in the ever-evolving music industry when rock and roll was born. With a quirky shield-like design and, at the time, an electric-powered movement, the Ventura showed a contemporary, audacious side to Hamilton. Today, the Ventura range is encapsulated by many different variations of the original concept, from accurate re-issue style pieces to modern interpretations with open heart dials and evolved case angles.

Elvis Presley wearing his Hamilton Ventura Watch

Elvis Presley wearing his Hamilton Ventura.

The Elvis80 is one such example that has taken the fundamentals of the original Ventura and playfully modernised them. With a skeleton dial complete with uniquely connected hour markers, a beautifully multi-finished case, and even luminous hands, this rose gold PVD coated steel piece has one hell of a distinctive wrist presence. Many watchmakers yearn for unique pieces in the range, free from comparisons to their competitors and totally proprietary. Well, Hamilton can tick that box, with the Ventura and specifically this Elvis80 demonstrating what is capable through innovation and creativity. After all, if it's good enough for the king of rock and roll…

Hamilton Ventura Elvis80 wrist watch

 

Broadway

The Broadway series is a range from Hamilton that is free from historical inspiration and one which allows Hamilton to forge a new, contemporary path. A more smart/casual focus is to be expected here with bold uses of colour, dial texture, and modern styling. The Broadway range is an underappreciated way to show your affection for Hamilton, and one with daily wear potential written all over it.

Hamilton Broadway Day Date Quartz Watch

Image courtesy of Hamilton.

If that last sentence got you excited, this piece will have you reaching for your wallet: say hello to the Day-Date Quartz. Sure it's quartz, but whoever says quartz is boring doesn't appreciate the scope in which it can be totally appealing. With a vertical patterned dial, a solid centralised stripe, universally appealing hour markers (including numerals for 12 and 6), and, of course, the day-date complication at three, this modern, reliable Hamilton is perfect for daily wear. At 40mm with a beautifully finished case, you can be sure quality is guaranteed.

 

To learn more about Hamilton and each of their ranges, head over to the James Porter & Son website or showroom today.